Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 22. July, 1878.Various
History
Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 22. July, 1878.
Various
Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- Periodicals
seen a Persian caravan start--a sight well worth rising early for, if
only to see their outlandish drivers lash the loads upon the camels,
which groan and bellow and scold during the operation, retracting their
hare-lips, showing their long yellow teeth, and projecting from their
mouths the very hideous and peculiar bag of flesh and blue color; in
which condition they attain a point of repulsiveness possessed by no
other animal I know of.
An official reception and visit by the pacha had of course been
accomplished, both parties seeming to be about equally bored by the
ceremony, and Smyrna seemed, for us, to be pretty well "played out." We
were reduced to dropping small coin over the taffrail for expectant men
and boys to dive for through the clear blue water, and to betting upon
the time of arrival of the Austrian Lloyds or the Russian mail-steamer.
Clearly, this was not a wholesome state to be in; and knowing this, a
Good Samaritan, our acting consul, Mr. G----, proposed as a distraction
trips to neighboring places of interest, especially to Ephesus and
Magnesia. They were both to be reached by rail, and so near as to
require but a single day's absence, which was of importance to us, as we
were expecting orders to sail at any moment.
The first-mentioned place naturally attracted us most, from its
association with our youthful studies, both biblical and secular; and so
it was decided that we should make a day of it at Ephesus, and have a
picnic. The party consisted of our consul and his two nieces, very
excellent specimens of Levantine-born people of English stock; an
Armenian gentleman, Mr. A----, and his wife; and three of our officers.
Due preparation was made by kind Mr. G---- in the way of sending hampers
of provision and wine, and in ordering horses to meet us at Aiasulouk,
the nearest station to Ephesus, and about fifty miles by rail from
Smyrna.
We were obliged to start very early in the morning, for there was only
one daily passenger-train each way on the Smyrna and Aidin Railroad. The
road was far from being remunerative to the bond- and stock-holders at
that time, and I fancy it has not been so since. There seemed, indeed,
scant reason for any passenger-train at all, for, besides our own party,
there were only two or three Zaptiehs, truculent-looking fellows, a
couple of English merchants and some rayahs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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