Literary Pilgrimages of a NaturalistPackard, Winthrop
History
Literary Pilgrimages of a Naturalist
Packard, Winthrop
Natural history -- Outdoor books; New England -- Description and travel
Salt marshes surround Newburyport with their level beauty and
through them you must come to it. Through them, too, the sea comes
to it, stretching long arms lovingly as if to clasp it and bear
it away. Thus fondly but placidly the tides twice a day give the
gentle old city a hug and then go about their business. It is no
wonder that this corner of old Newbury knew it belonged to the
ocean rather than to the land and was set off as a seaport long
ago. In the heyday of their affection the town sent forth its
splendid ships in great numbers to all seas, and the seas in return
sent tribute of all distant climes to Newburyport. For more than
a century shipmasters and sailors born on the long ridge south of
the Merrimac knew Guadeloupe and Surinam, Port au Prince and St.
Martins as well as they knew the streets of their own towns, for
the trade with the West Indies was very large. Ships launched at
Newburyport and manned by her men brought back wine from Madeira,
carpeting, silks and glassware from Bilbao, salt from Cadiz and
from Turk’s Island, linen from Ireland, earthenware from Dunkirk.
They brought back, too, knowledge of the wide spaces of the earth
and distant cities, and it is no wonder the town grew in dignity as
well as wealth, for it had a broad outlook upon the world. In the
year 1810, more than a century ago, twenty-one full-rigged ships,
thirteen brigs and a schooner were built and set sail on maiden
voyages from Newburyport. On the first day of May, ten years later,
forty vessels that had been held in port by contrary winds put to
sea. The thought of such fleets makes the harbor lonely to-day when
the only masts in sight are those of a coal barge or two, waiting
for the surf on the bar to go down and let them out.
It is only a little over half a century since Newburyport saw the
launching of a ship that was famous on all seas, her exploits
woven into sea chanteys and ringing in hoarse chorus round the
capstan in many a distant port while the men bent to the capstan
bars, the pawl clicked, and ponderous anchors strained upward
out of the ooze. That was the clipper-built Liverpool packet
Dreadnaught. She was known as “The Wild Boat of the Atlantic” and
“The Flying Dutchman.” Twice she carried the latest American news
to Europe, slipping in between steamers. Once in 1860 she crossed
the wind-swept western ocean in nine days and thirteen hours,
from Sandy Hook to Queenstown, a pace which many an ocean-going
steamship does not better to-day. She was conspicuous on all seas
for the red cross painted on her foretopsail. “The Port” was proud
indeed of this vessel, and as I stood on the top deck of the gray
old custom house, looking down on the empty harbor on the one hand
and up the ridge at the great square houses of the old sea captains
and ship-builders on the other, I thought the wind crooned a snatch
or two of deep sea chantey in memory of it round the gray stone
cornices at my feet:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account