Literary Pilgrimages of a NaturalistPackard, Winthrop
History
Literary Pilgrimages of a Naturalist
Packard, Winthrop
Natural history -- Outdoor books; New England -- Description and travel
“There’s a saucy, wild packet, a packet of fame,
She belongs to New York and the Dreadnaught’s her name.
She’s bound to the eastward where stormy winds blow,
Bound away in the Dreadnaught to the eastward we go.
Oh, the Dreadnaught’s a-howling down the Long Island shore,
Captain Samuels will drive her as he’s oft done before,
With every stitch drawing aloft and alow,
She’s a Liverpool packet; Lord God, see her go!”
Such was the building of Newburyport, and such is the romance of
memory that comes in to her on every wind of the sea to-day, though
the ships have sailed away never to return and even the foundations
of the old ship yards are hard to find. The wealth and dignity of
the old sea-faring days remain. The custom house bravely hoists its
flag each morning and waits in gray silence for the cargoes that
rarely come. Old age comes to it, though, and to climb the worn
stairs to its top is to walk with the men of other years, hearing
their footfalls in the echo of your own and seeing them vanish,
phantoms of gray dust, through dark doorways into the forgotten
past. Piled in the corners as they pass you see the outworn flags
of other years, as if draping huddled heaps of the achievements of
these phantom shipmasters. Perhaps in some dark corner lies another
story like that of the Scarlet Letter.
Along the street on which the custom house faces passed the
sea-faring traffic of the day, and the buildings suggest Wapping
Old Stairs or some such quaint corner of old London near the
Thames. The smell of the sea lingers round all corners, and in
the little shop windows are crowded for sale pictures of ships
and fragments of ship chandlery and curios from ports once a
half-year’s sail away; wares that one fancies have waited a century
for customers. The street itself loves the sea so well that it is
always trying to reach it, swerving toward the water line often
and making detours when blocked, and always sending down little
messenger side streets to bring it news from the very shore, thus
winding its way always eastward till it gets an unobstructed view
of the harbor entrance across Joppa flats and is no doubt content,
strolling there along the very margin with a blear eye turned
seaward for the ships that come no more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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