Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
On one occasion, in the West Highlands, I availed myself of a lugsail
ferry to cross an arm of the sea and so avoid a long détour by land. The
boat was old, the sail was thick with big-stitched patches, and the
ferryman was an elder. I had much edifying talk with him, and at last
gliding from the Declaratory Act, of which he did not approve, I asked
him if he had any family. "Yes," he replied, "I have two sons. One of
them is a polissman in Glasgow, a nice lad, a very nice lad: he sends me
ten shillings every month; oh! an excellent lad is he indeed. But my
other son is a disgrace to me; he is bad, very bad. He is a drunkard and
a card-player and a Sabbath-breaker, and what's a thousand times worse
than all that, he's a _Pro-Boer_." This instance of patriotism in a
remote Highland nook was very refreshing for me to hear, and I gave the
anti-Krugerite elder a substantial fare for his trouble in ferrying me
over the loch. He invoked the blessing of Heaven on me, and I hope his
prayer will be answered.
"FALLS OF BRUAR, ONLY, PLEASE!"
Some years ago, I had occasion to spend a day at Blair Athol, where I
was dosed with nothing but kindness by a genial son of the famous Clan
Macdonald. He put his trap and driver at my disposal, in order that I
might, with comfort and expedition, go and view the Falls of Bruar,
immortalised in one of Burns's cleverest poems. No sooner had we set off
than the driver began to calumniate Burns in unmeasured language, and to
throw withering scorn on the Falls, which, he declared, were utterly
unworthy of being visited by any sane man. "If you want to see real
falls," said he, "I'll take you to the Falls of Tummel, which could
knock those of Bruar into a cocked hat!" (such was the curious metaphor
he employed). I told him he could take me to both if there was time, but
Bruar I must see. He landed me at the Tummel, and drove on recklessly
himself a mile further to see his sweetheart. The desire to pay a visit
to his Bonnie Jean was the sole cause of his gibes at the poet. Back he
came in an hour, chanting merrily, and we drove to Bruar. I found the
varlet had lied most expansively: the Falls are gloriously fine, and
worth walking a good many miles to see. On the homeward road, I could
see he was ill at ease: he was dreadfully afraid that his amorous flight
would be discovered by his master. He said to me once every minute,
"_Falls of Bruar, only, please: keep your thumb on Tummel!_" Latterly he
set these words to a kind of rough music, and sang them continuously in
my ear, winking the while and smiling roguishly. I obeyed him.
A BAD CASE OF NERVES.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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