Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
On the occasion of my second visit to Appin, I stayed in the fine new
hotel built on the eminence called Druim-an-t-Sealbhain. The landlord is
a man of great wit and reading, and with him I had some enjoyable hours
of miscellaneous conversation. Mr. Macdonald (for that is his name) has
an excellent knowledge of the Celtic dialects, has translated into
Gaelic verse some of the best-known poems of Burns, Tannahill, and
Byron, and is extremely clever at retailing the legendary tales that
still go rumouring along the Strath of Appin. He has also a good
knowledge of English literature, and told me certain details regarding
Scott and Wordsworth which I was pleased to know.
It seems that Sir Walter was at one time tutor in Appin House, and was
in the habit of visiting the cot of an old shepherd, a notorious
_seanachie_, full of romantic lore, for the purpose of hearing, and
writing down, the old man's tales. An oak tree is still pointed out,
under which, it is said, Scott composed part of _The Lord of the Isles_.
Appin is not very far from the castles of Dunollie and Dunstaffnage,
which Sir Walter wrought skilfully into the texture of his tales.
The most interesting item mentioned by Mr. Macdonald had reference to
the visit of William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy, in the year
1803. Everyone who has read the life of the great poet of Nature knows
the charming description of the district contained in one of his
sister's letters. "We arrived," she says, "at Port-na-croish. It is a
small village--a few huts and an indifferent inn, by the side of the
loch; ordered a fowl for dinner, had a fire lighted, and went a few
steps from the door up the road, and turning aside into a field, stood
at the top of a low eminence, from which, looking down the loch to the
sea through a long vista of hills and mountains, _we beheld one of the
most delightful prospects that, even when we dream of fairer worlds than
this, it is possible to conceive in our hearts_." Here follows a
description so exquisite of the sea-scenery and the Morven Hills, that
it deserves to be classed with the finest examples of word-painting in
the English language.
The new hotel at Appin is built on the low eminence referred to in the
above-cited letter. The name Druim-an-t-Sealbhain is giving way to the
complimentary title of "Dorothy Wordsworth's View." From the front
windows of the hotel, the same calm inland seas, grassy hills, Morven
mists, grim old forts, and intricate communion of land and water, can be
seen precisely as they were seen by the Wordsworths more than a century
ago. The Port-na-croish inn has become a village store: it is well
worthy of note, not merely for the reference in the letter, but for a
fine legend, which I shall now narrate.
MACDONALD'S GRATITUDE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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