Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
Nay, musing by the ingle-lowe
With summer in my brain,
I'd cloth with leaves the frozen bough
And all the ice-bound brooks endow
With tinkling life again.[37]
[37] Berriedale, which moved the American to commemorative song,
is on the Caithness shore, and there the Duke of Portland has
one of his numerous residences. The Duke's seat is high up on
the hills and behind it is a mountain of grim aspect which
serves for a deer-forest. At Berriedale, the road traversed by
the coach is simply appalling: boards marked _Dangerous_
forewarn all wheel-men that risks cannot be taken with impunity.
An honest descent can be easily coped with, but here the road to
the glen is not merely steep, it is as lacking in
straightforwardness as the links of Forth. Once down at the
level of the village, the breeze no longer blows fresh and
chilly, but subsides into a quiet air, grateful with the odour
of flowers. Passengers are requested to walk up the
corresponding hill to a level equal to the height of the road
before the interruption of the terrible Berriedale chasm. When
the ascent is reached, one has a view of unsurpassed splendour.
The wooded Wye, which Wordsworth sang so rapturously and which
he saw with his mind's eye in the dinsome town, has no landscape
to compare in grandeur and beauty with the country round
Berriedale, viewed from this eminence. Hills of richest green,
diversified with purple heather; a back-ground of wild bog and
mountain; blue sea; and great banks of cloud shepherded over the
heights by the mighty winds.
XXII.
THE MINERS.
The afternoon is cool and calm,
Near by flashes the mighty sea,
Inland rise green, dewy hills,
Crowned with eye-bewitching trees.
Suddenly the eye is amazed and terrified,
A hideous procession sordid and grimy
Of men and boys, slaves of the coal-pit,
Is seen on the road, shaming the daylight.
All the day long they work in the darkness,
Far from the songs of the birds and the sunshine,
Now they return to their sordid villages,
Ill-smelling rows of comfortless cottages.
The rich and dainty ladies of fashion
Stand aloof from these swart coal-hewers,
Are ready to swoon as the air is poisoned
With odours of subterranean foulness.
Coarse of look, and of speech far coarser!
Laughter loud with no merriment in it!
No more soul than the beasts that perish!
These are the men despised for their toiling.
XXIII.
IN A COUNTRY GRAVEYARD.[38]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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