"To begin with meat, because you know my theory that that is always the
expensive point in housekeeping, you know I said veal was cheap in the
spring. So it is, but instead of using the ordinary cuts, you can have
something less expensive. There is a calf's heart, for one thing. A
country butcher would probably give that away--and incidentally inquire
what on earth you wanted it for. Here in town I suppose we must pay
something for it, but it will not be much; only a few cents. You have no
idea what a delicious meat that is, so delicate and tender. You wash it
well and make a bread-crumbs stuffing for it with a good deal of
seasoning, and after you cut out the strings and wipe it dry in the
middle you stuff it. Bake it in a covered pan for two hours, basting it
well frequently, then make a gravy and pour over it. You really should
have cooked onions, browned in this gravy, to go with the dish, because
they are the accepted thing with the heart, but you need not if you do
not want to, for it will be good without them. Then the next day you
will have enough left over for a dish of baked hash, or a cottage loaf.
And all for, say, ten cents or less! Isn't that a stroke of economy?
"Then there is boiled calf's head. That, too, you could get for a song
in the country. Have the butcher clean it well and let you have both the
brain and the tongue; be sure and make him understand that. Wash and
parboil both of these in separate saucepans. The brains taste exactly
like sweetbreads, and if you chop them and make them up into croquettes,
no one will suspect that they are not what they seem. It is strange that
so many people are prejudiced against using brains, for they are the
cleanest possible meat. They are kept shut up in a little bone box where
nothing can soil or hurt them, and as a calf has little intelligence,
they never grow tough from use! So have the brains for one meal. Then
when the tongue is tender, take it up and peel it and braise it with
minced vegetables; that is, cook it in the oven in a covered pan,
smothered in vegetables. Have this as it is, as a roast, and what is
left over make up into a loaf exactly as you do with chopped veal or
beef; or dice, cream and bake it for a second dinner. If you have any
tiny bits still left, put those through the meat chopper and spread them
on toast; put an egg on each and serve for breakfast or luncheon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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