Here we reach the oldest part of the continent, geologists tell us; and
here we encounter a fragment of the Old World civilization. Quebec
presents the anomaly of a mediæval European city in the midst of the
American landscape. This air, this sky, these clouds, these trees, the
look of these fields, are what we have always known; but the houses,
and streets, and vehicles, and language, and physiognomy are strange.
As I walked upon the grand terrace I saw the robin and kingbird and
song sparrow, and there in the tree, by the Wolfe Monument, our summer
warbler was at home. I presently saw, also, that our republican crow
was a British subject, and that he behaved here more like his European
brother than he does in the States, being less wild and suspicious. On
the Plains of Abraham excellent timothy grass was growing and cattle
were grazing. We found a path through the meadow, and, with the
exception of a very abundant weed with a blue flower, saw nothing new
or strange,—nothing but the steep tin roofs of the city and its
frowning wall and citadel. Sweeping around the far southern horizon, we
could catch glimpses of mountains that were evidently in Maine or New
Hampshire; while twelve or fifteen miles to the north the Laurentian
ranges, dark and formidable, arrested the eye. Quebec, or the walled
part of it, is situated on a point of land shaped not unlike the human
foot, looking northeast, the higher and bolder side being next the
river, with the main part of the town on the northern slope toward the
St. Charles. Its toes are well down in the mud where this stream joins
the St. Lawrence, while the citadel is high on the instep and commands
the whole field. The grand Battery is a little below, on the brink of
the instep, so to speak, and the promenader looks down several hundred
feet into the tops of the chimneys of this part of the lower town, and
upon the great river sweeping by northeastward like another Amazon. The
heel of our misshapen foot extends indefinitely toward Montreal. Upon
it, on a level with the citadel, are the Plains of Abraham. It was up
its high, almost perpendicular, sides that Wolfe clambered with his
army, and stood in the rear of his enemy one pleasant September morning
over a hundred years ago.
To the north and northeast of Quebec, and in full view from the upper
parts of the city, lies a rich belt of agricultural country, sloping
gently toward the river, and running parallel with it for many miles,
called the Beauport slopes. The division of the land into uniform
parallelograms, as in France, was a marked feature, and is so
throughout the Dominion. A road ran through the midst of it lined with;
trees, and leading to the falls of the Montmorenci. I imagine that this
section is the garden of Quebec. Beyond it rose the mountains. Our eyes
looked wistfully toward them, for we had decided to penetrate the
Canadian woods in that direction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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