On Friday we made an excursion to Great Lake Jacques Cartier, paddling
and poling up the river in the rude box-boat. It was a bright, still
morning after the rain, and everything had a new, fresh appearance.
Expectation was ever on tiptoe as each turn in the river opened a new
prospect before us. How wild, and shaggy, and silent it was! What
fascinating pools, what tempting stretches of trout-haunted water! Now
and then we would catch a glimpse of long black shadows starting away
from the boat and shooting through the sunlit depths. But no sound or
motion on shore was heard or seen. Near the lake we came to a long,
shallow rapid, when we pulled off our shoes and stockings, and, with
our trousers rolled above our knees, towed the boat up it, wincing and
cringing amid the sharp, slippery stones. With benumbed feet and legs
we reached the still water that forms the stem of the lake, and
presently saw the arms of the wilderness open and the long deep blue
expanse in their embrace. We rested and bathed, and gladdened our eyes
with the singularly beautiful prospect. The shadows of summer clouds
were slowly creeping up and down the sides of the mountains that hemmed
it in. On the far eastern shore, near the head, banks of what was
doubtless white sand shone dimly in the sun, and the illusion that
there was a town nestled there haunted my mind constantly. It was like
a section of the Hudson below the Highlands, except that these waters
were bluer and colder, and these shores darker, than even those Sir
Hendrik first looked upon; but surely, one felt, a steamer will round
that point presently, or a sail drift into view! We paddled a mile or
more up the east shore, then across to the west, and found such
pleasure in simply gazing upon the scene that our rods were quite
neglected. We did some casting after a while, but raised no fish of any
consequence till we were in the outlet again, when they responded so
freely that the “disgust of trout” was soon upon us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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