Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
It was a quaint caravan which next morning scarped the north-eastern
shoulder of the T'Oums Mountain, in search of El Dorado. The guide--a
little, wizened creature, certainly more than half Bushman--and I, led
the procession. Next came the pack-oxen, conducted by their respective
owners, but generally under Hendrick's charge. The loads were
miscellaneous in character, but not heavy. They comprised my bedding,
provisions, delving tools and receptacles for such reptiles, insects and
plants as we might find it worth while to collect. From the top of one
load the handle of the cradle pointed towards heaven--or rather it would
have had it not swayed so much from the gait of the ox. I wished for a
small flag to attach to it. Next came a mixed crowd, about twenty in
number. These were mere camp followers, but they insisted on
accompanying me. They included men, women and children. Among the
latter were two ape-like babies, slung on their mothers' backs.
Andries, for the time, had remained behind with the wagon.
The track was unexpectedly good; much better in fact than the one over
which we had travelled before reaching Kuboos. To the left, in the
direction of the Orange River, the scenery was comparatively tame,--that
is to say it looked as though one might pass over the country without
inevitably breaking one's neck. But to the right lay chaos, confused
and titanic. The strata were completely inverted--in some instances
almost turned upside down. But the general suggestion was as though
several miles of the earth's surface-crust had been placed on end. The
soft layers had disappeared; the hard remained standing. Alternate deep
chasms and jutting, mountainous buttresses of rock were the consequence.
That sickle-bend must have been the result of a tremendous cosmic
upheaval--an earth-throe which flung aside like a wisp the from thirty
to forty miles of double mountains bounding the then-steep river gorge.
A good deal of the former surface of the bend had disappeared. Then the
river, no longer a captive in adamant bonds (as it still is farther
inland) doubtless took advantage of the unstable conditions brought
about by the cataclysm, laid hands on the shattered earth-ribs and
hurled them, piecemeal, from its path. So that there, although the
mountains were even loftier than those farther to the eastward, they did
not press upon the river as though trying to strangle it.
So far as I could make out El Dorado was about twenty miles from Kuboos.
As we proceeded the track improved. The guide now calmly informed me
that we had passed the worst of it. Therefore all the trouble and
expense of hiring the pack-oxen and their owners was unnecessary. Here
evaporated another illusion; these people had developed business
instincts; the serpent of guile had found its way even to the
Richtersveld paradise. I scribbled a note asking Andries to follow on
our spoor with the wagon. This note I sent back by one of the camp
followers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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