Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
Old Mr Von Schlicht of Klipfontein--who had spent most of his life in
Namaqualand, had recently been endeavouring to recall for me details of
the desert journeys of Ecklon and Drege, who did so much for South
African botany. I ascertained that Ecklon visited Kamiebies. How his
heart must have leaped when his eyes first gathered in the winter glory
of those mountains. When he afterwards stood, begging his bread at the
corner of the Heerengracht, Cape Town,--did he ever recall that scene?
Strange world of men that so often lets its noblest, after lives of
heroic toil for the highest and most unselfish ends, die in the gutter--
if it does not more mercifully slay them--and pays tribute of corn, wine
and oil, of jewels and fine raiment, to the company-monger or other
chartered robber adroit enough to squeeze through the meshes of the law.
We inspanned at sunset, and plunged straight into the desert, travelling
slightly to the south of east. Our objective was lower Pof Adder--which
must not be confounded with the northern Pof Adder beyond Namies. We
were out of the region of "toa"; the plain was covered with small
shrub,--half of which were soft and succulent and the others hard and
thorny. There were no intermediate kinds; the desert is a region of
extremes.
In spite of the jolting I managed to get a few hours' sleep. We
outspanned for an hour at midnight and made coffee. Now we had some
heavy sand-tracts to cross,--with jolty stretches lying between them.
But we reached the camp of the half-breeds just at dawn, as had been
intended.
They were caught--if not exactly red-handed, yet with ample proof of
their guilt. In the mat-houses of the suspected men we found boxes and
bags packed full of feathers. These were of all kinds--from the long
white plumes and the short blacks of the male bird, to the browns of the
hens and chicks. The culprits pleaded guilty; retributive justice was
forthwith satisfied at the wagon-wheel.
The camp was quite a large one; I should say it contained over sixty
souls, men, women and children included. These people were all of the
same colour, light-yellow; they even seemed to shew signs of
type-inception. Lean, sinewy and tough, they were not beautiful either
in form or feature. In neither sex did the sallow skin give any hint of
blood beneath. However, anaemic as they were, whatever fluid circulated
in their arteries must have been of good quality, for their capacity for
physical endurance was considerable.
It was the eyes of those half-breeds that were most distinctive. These
were dusky and deep, with an expression--not exactly furtive; rather
expressive of haunting apprehension. This was hardly to be wondered at,
for they had ceaselessly to watch for every change in the desert's
pitiless visage--to note each alteration in the moods of earth and sky.
Their lives were spent in answering a succession of riddles propounded
by the terrible sphinx between whose taloned paws they existed as
playthings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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