London (England) -- History; London (England) -- Social life and customs
The City of London has always been famous for the great plenty and
variety of its food. Beef, mutton, and pork formed then, as now, the
staple of the diet; small beer was the drink of all, men, women, and
children. When, for instance, the Franciscans first set up their humble
cells, the small beer being short in quantity, they did not drink water,
but mixed water with the beer, in order to make it go round. There were
so many fast-days in the year that fish was as important a form of food
as mutton or beef. They ate lampreys, porpoise, and sturgeon, among
other fish. Ling, cod, and herring furnished them with salted fish.
Peacocks and swans adorned their tables at great banquets. Their dishes
were sweetened with honey, for sugar was scarce, but spices were
abundant. By the thirteenth century they had begun to make plentiful use
of vegetables. They were fond of pounding meats of different kinds, such
as pork and poultry, and mixing them in a kind of _rissole_. At a
certain great banquet, the menu of which has survived, there appears
neither beef nor mutton, probably because those meats belonged to the
daily life, but there are great birds and little birds, brawn, rabbits,
swans, and venison for meats, soup of cabbage, then the _rissoles_ just
mentioned, and various sweetmeats. Their drink was strong ale for
banquets, hot spiced ale with a toast, the loving-cup of hypocras, and
for wines, Rhenish, sack, Lisbon, and wine of Bordeaux.
Since every man in the City who practised a trade must be a freeman and
a member of a company or trade guild, and since every company looked
after its livery, there should have been no poor in the City at all. But
performance falls short of promise; laws cannot always be enforced;
there was, it is quite certain, a mass of poverty and worthlessness in
the City even in those days. Perhaps the City proper, with its wards,
was tolerably free from rogues and vagabonds, but there were the suburb
of Southwark, that of the Strand, that already springing up outside
Cripplegate, and the city of Westminster. Plenty of room here for rogues
to find shelter. There were also the trades of which the City took no
heed, of minstrels, jugglers, and actors, and all those who lived by
amusing others; also the calling of servant in every kind, as drover,
carter, wagoner, carrier, porter (not yet associated), and so forth. And
there were the men who would never do any work at all, yet wanted as
much drink and food as the honest men who did their share. For all these
people, when they were hungry, there were the charities of the great
men, the bishops, and the monasteries. For instance, the Earl of Warwick
allowed any man to take as much meat as he could carry away on a dagger;
the Bishop of Ely (but this was later, in the sixteenth century) gave
every day bread, drink, and meat to two hundred poor people; the Earl of
Derby fed every day, twice, sixty old people; thrice a week all comers;
and on Good Friday 2700 men and women.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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