London Clubs: Their History & TreasuresNevill, Ralph
History
London Clubs: Their History & Treasures
Nevill, Ralph
Clubs -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
The chief faults of this club were its expense and its limited
accommodation. A first-class dinner was absurdly expensive, costing
close upon £10 a head. In addition to this, the little tables were, on
account of the smallness of the premises, so closely packed that
intimate conversation was next to impossible. It must be observed,
however, that there were private rooms upstairs which could be reserved
for dinner-parties, and many were given.
After a short time the Amphitryon closed its doors, and left behind it
nothing but the memory of some excellent dinners and a certain number of
heavy unpaid bills.
A somewhat similar institution was the Maison Dorée Club, at No. 38
Dover Street. The committee was an influential one, numbering amongst
its members the Dukes of St. Albans and Wellington, Lord Breadalbane,
Lord Dungarvan, Lord Castletown, Lord Camoys, Lord Lurgan, Prince Henry
of Pless, and Lord Suffield. The entrance fee was two guineas, and the
annual subscription the same sum. The cuisine was under the management
of the Maison Dorée, which was then in the last days of its existence in
Paris.
The club-house was almost too elaborately decorated. Gold, indeed, had
spread even to the area railings, and the lock of the area door itself
was adorned with heavy dull gold! The pantry-maid, it was said, had a
solid gold key to open and shut the latter for the convenience of any
favoured policeman! On the whole, the building presented a most
imposing, if rather gaudy, appearance. The decorations of the
dining-room consisted principally of pastoral scenes painted on tapestry
panels in the French style, whilst a large glass tea-house overhung the
garden, and was supposed to form a highly attractive feature.
The club, however, met with the same fate as the Amphitryon; indeed, it
fared a great deal worse, the latter for a time, at least, having been a
success, which the Maison Dorée never was. Lingering on in a moribund
state, it soon flickered out, its disappearance being followed some time
later by that of the parent restaurant in Paris, which, owing to lack of
support, ended its career, to the regret of all lovers of high-class
gastronomy.
Later on, one or two other restaurants made an attempt to introduce
“supper clubs,” where members might remain after 12.30, the closing hour
which a ridiculous Act of Parliament fixes for all licensed premises.
None of these supper clubs, however, proved successful. Quite naturally,
people soon became tired of seeing the same faces; besides, there is
nothing that amuses ladies so much as scanning and criticizing the
heterogeneous crowds which nightly flock to restaurants after the
theatre. Willis’s—for a time much frequented by the smart world—was
remodelled and spoilt in order to make room for a club of this sort,
with the result that an excellent restaurant lost its popularity, and
finally disappeared altogether.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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