[Illustration: STAPLE INN, HOLBORN.]
Leigh Hunt, in that most delightful of all books about London, _The
Town_, tells us that No. 7 Craven Street, Strand, was once the dwelling
of Benjamin Franklin, and he adds, with the manliness which is always
such a curious element of his unmanliness: “What a change along the
shore of the Thames in a few years (for two centuries are less than a
few in the lapse of time) from the residence of a set of haughty nobles,
who never dreamt that a tradesman could be anything but a tradesman, to
that of a yeoman's son, and a printer, who was one of the founders of a
great state!”
Not far away in one of the houses of Essex Street, Strand, a state
which led in the attempted dismemberment of that great state, and nearly
wrought its ruin, had a formal beginning, for it is said that it was
there John Locke wrote the constitution of South Carolina, which still,
I believe, remains its organic law. One has one's choice among the
entirely commonplace yellow brick buildings, which give the street the
aspect of an old-fashioned _place_ in Boston. The street was seriously
quiet the afternoon of our visit, with only a few foot-passengers
sauntering through it, and certain clerklike youth entering and issuing
from the doors of the buildings which had the air of being law-offices.
We used as a pretext for visiting the Temple the very attenuated
colonial fact that some Mortons akin to him of Merrymount in
Massachusetts, have their tombs and tablets in the triforium of the
Temple Church. But when we had climbed to the triforium by the corkscrew
stairs leading to it, did we find there tombs and tablets? I am not
sure, but I am sure we found the tomb of that Edward Gibbon who wrote a
_History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire_, and who while
in Parliament strongly favored “distressing the Americans,” as the
king wished, and made a speech in support of the government measure
for closing the port of Boston. I did not bear him any great grudge
for that, but I could not give myself to his monument with such
cordial affection as I felt for that of the versatile and volatile
old letter-writer James Howell, which also I found in that triforium,
half-hidden behind a small organ, with an epitaph too undecipherable in
the dimness for my patience. It was so satisfactory to find this, after
looking in vain for any record of him at Jesus College in Oxford, where
he studied the humanities that enabled him to be so many things to so
many masters, that I took all his chiselled praises for granted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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