may, if you are so envious, consider it in that point and this, and at
some point find her less great than the greatest of her overgrown
or overgrowing daughters, but from the presence of that tremendous
collectivity, that populous commonwealth of famous citizens whose
census can hardly be taken, you must come away and own, in the welcome
obscurity to which you plunge among the millions of her capital, that
in all-round greatness we have hardly even the imagination of her
transcendence.
Well towards fifty years had passed between my first and last visits to
London, but I think I had kept for it throughout that long interval much
more of the earlier sentiment than for any other city that I have known.
I do not wish to be mystical, and I hesitate to say that this sentiment
was continuous through the smell of the coal-smoke, or that the smoke
formed a solution in which all associations were held, and from which
they were, from time to time, precipitated in specific memories. The
peculiar odor had at once made me at home in London, for it had probably
so saturated my first consciousness in the little black, smoky town on
the Ohio River, where I was born, that I found myself in a most intimate
element when I now inhaled it. But apart from this personal magic, the
London smoke has always seemed to me full of charm. Of course it is
mostly the smoke which gives “atmosphere,” softens outlines, tenderly
blurs forms, makes near and far the same, and _intenerisce il cuore_,
for any him whose infant sense it bathed. No doubt it thickens the
constant damp, and lends mass and viscosity to the fog; but it is
over-blamed and under-praised. It is chiefly objectionable, it is wholly
deplorable, indeed, when it descends in those sooty particles, the
_blacks;_ but in all my London sojourns I have had but one experience of
the blacks, and I will not condemn the smoke because of them. It gives
a wild pathetic glamour to the late winter sunrises and the early winter
sunsets, the beauty of which dwells still in my mind from my first
London sojourn. In my most recent autumn, it mellowed the noons to the
softest effulgence; in the summer it was a veil in the air which kept
the flame of the heated term from doing its worst. It hung, diaphonous,
in the dusty perspectives, but it gathered and thickened about the
squares and places, and subdued all edges, so that nothing cut or hurt
the vision.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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