London (England) -- History -- 17th century; London (England) -- Social life and customs -- 17th century
Let us go on to repeat an observation forced upon us in every age, that
London has always been a great place for good living. We learn from
Pepys what a profusion of food was offered at a dinner given at his own
house. The quantity of food habitually taken was much greater then than
now. People got up earlier; though they took little exercise for the
sake of exercise, yet they were in the open air a great deal; on the
river quiescent; in the gardens sitting, strolling, or playing bowls;
they all grew sleek and fat. These people had probably taken very
little breakfast, a few radishes, a draught of small ale or claret, a
piece of bread. The hour of dinner had advanced; it was now served at
one o’clock, or sometimes at two; it was the principal event of the
day. Food was simpler and less composed of made dishes than in the days
of Whittington and Picard. We find served roast chicken, veal, mutton
and beef, tongue, salmon, stewed carp, pies of goose, fish, turkey,
eels, and everything else. The people served their dinner in courses,
each course being, in fact, after the ancient custom, a complete dinner
in itself. There was a great deal of dining together, as Pepys lets us
see continually, and after dinner they sat and talked and drank. In the
matter of drink they were catholic. It does not seem that the merchants
did much business after dinner, for then began the time of rest,
recreation, and drinking; then came the theatre or the tavern, later on
the coffee-house, though in the evening Pepys, who was an industrious
official, got through a good deal of work.
Fresh meat was scarce, and even impossible to get, in the winter. In
the country, and perhaps in town as well, housewives had to lay in
a great stock of beef for pickling; it was bought in pieces and in
quantities of 70 lbs. at a time for the pickling tub; salt beef was the
standard winter dish, garnished with a great quantity of parsnips as a
corrective. Children and servants had no forks; small beer was brewed
at home, and gentlemen thought no more of a pint of wine than working
men think now of a pint of beer.
The fashion of putting the dinner on the table at once began to be
changed soon after the Restoration, when the dishes were presented one
after the other in some sort of order; but I find in boarding-houses
and in private houses, long after this, the custom of putting
everything on the table at the same time.
At dinner the women sat together at the upper end and helped every one,
conversing freely the while.
We find some excellent specimens of dinners in the _Diary_ of Pepys.
Here is the menu of a grand dinner (April 4, 1665):—
“A Fricasse of rabbits and chickens, a leg of mutton boiled, three
carps on a dish, a great dish of a side of a lamb, a dish of
roasted pigeons, a dish of four lobsters, three tarts, a lamprey
pie (a most rare pie), a dish of anchovies, good wine of several
sorts, and all things mighty noble and to my great content.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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