London (England) -- History -- 17th century; London (England) -- Social life and customs -- 17th century
I do not propose to dwell upon the changes of fashion, because the
alterations in a sleeve, or in the length of a lady’s waist, would
carry us too far and would be of little profit. But there was one
change in fashion which one must not pass over, because it exercised an
influence upon the whole national character. This was the introduction
of the peruke, perruque, or wig. Ladies began to wear wigs, presumably,
as they do now, to conceal the ravages of time, and the falling off
of the natural hair. Malcolm is of opinion that the wig was a natural
reaction against the Roundhead rule. For the Roundheads cropped their
hair and the Cavaliers wore it long in curls. Therefore, he who had a
scanty supply of curls, or was bald, to escape being taken for one of
the opposite camp, put on a wig; next he excited envy by the fulness
and length of his curls; finally all wore wigs, and the fashion set in
which lasted a hundred years, and, as regards the clergy, for nearly
two hundred years. A good deal might be said for the use of a wig. It
was, to begin with, an age when the heads of all the lower classes,
servants and working people, were always filled with vermin—one learns
that even so late as a hundred years ago it was almost impossible to
keep the children of quite respectable people clean in this respect.
Next, the time and trouble of having the head dressed and the curls
twisted—for not even a Cavalier could always depend upon a natural
curl—were saved by sending the wig to the hairdresser. Again, when
everybody wore a shaven face, the adoption of the wig went far to
conceal and disguise one’s age. Baldness there was none, nor any grey
hairs. A man generally had two wigs; a new wig of ordinary make cost
about three guineas, but one might pay a great deal more for a superior
wig. “Forty guineas a year,” cries an indignant writer, “for periwigs,
and but ten to a poor chaplain.” The wigs were at first an imitation
of a man’s own hair in colour, with some exaggeration in length; and
although cleanliness was one reason for their introduction, they had to
be sent to the barbers occasionally in order to be freed from vermin.
After the Plague, for a long time, nobody would buy a wig for fear of
infection. The fashion was, of course, carried to ridiculous lengths;
Lord Foppington, in the _Relapse_, is said to have a periwig down to
his knees; he also says that a periwig should be to a man like a mask
to a woman; nothing should be seen but his eyes.” The various kinds of
wig belong to the eighteenth century, in which they are treated more
fully.
[Illustration: Citizens: wife
Citizens: daughter
From contemporary engravings by Hollar.]
The following are a few more scattered notes on fashion:—
Both men and women carried pocket mirrors; the women had these dangling
from their girdles; the men carried them in their hands or in their
pockets, and sometimes stuck them in their hats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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