The day had proved magnificent. With a clear sky above them, they
looked down upon the valley of Grindelwald at their feet, while
around and below them gathered the Scheideck and the Faulhorn, the
pyramidal outline of the Niesen, and the chain of the Stockhorn. In
front lay the great masses of the Eiger and the Monch, while to the
southwest the Jungfrau rose above the long chain of the
Viescherhorner. The first pause of silent wonder and delight, while
they released themselves from their cords and arranged their
instruments, seems to have been succeeded by an outburst of
spirits; for in the journal of the youngest of the party, Francois
de Pourtales, then a lad of seventeen, we read: "The guides began
to wrestle and we to dance, when suddenly we saw a female chamois,
followed by her young, ascending a neighboring slope, and presently
four or five more stretched their necks over a rock, as if to see
what was going on. Breathless the wrestlers and the dancers paused,
fearing to disturb by the slightest movement creatures so shy of
human approach. They drew nearer until within easy gunshot
distance, and then galloping along the opposite ridge disappeared
over the summit."
The party passed more than an hour on the top of the Strahleck,
making observations and taking measurements. Then having rested and
broken their fast with such provisions as they had brought, they
prepared for a descent, which proved the more rapid, since much of
it was a long slide. Tied together once more, they slid, wherever
they found it possible to exchange the painful and difficult
walking for this simpler process. "Once below these slopes of
snow," says the journal of young de Pourtales again, "rocks almost
vertical, or narrow ledges covered with grass, served us as a road
and brought us to the glacier of the Grindelwald. To reach the
glacier itself we traversed a crevasse of great depth, and some
twenty feet wide; on a bridge of ice, one or two feet in width, and
broken toward the end, where we were obliged to spring across. Once
on the glacier the rest was nothing. The race was to the fastest,
and we were soon on the path of the tourists." Reaching the village
of Grindelwald at three o'clock in the afternoon, they found it
difficult to persuade the people at the inn that they had left the
glacier of the Aar that morning. From Grindelwald they returned by
the Scheideck to the Grimsel, visiting on their way the upper
glacier of Grindelwald, the glacier of Schwartzwald, and that of
Rosenlaui, in order to see how far these had advanced since their
last visit to them. After a short rest at the Hospice of the
Grimsel, Agassiz returned with two or three of his companions to
their hut on the Aar glacier for the purpose of driving stakes into
the holes previously bored in the ice. He hoped by means of these
stakes to learn the following year what had been the rate of
movement of the glacier. The summer's work closed with the ascent
of the Siedelhorn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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