On the other side of this crevasse, and immediately above it, rose
an abrupt wall of icy snow. Up this wall Leuthold and another guide
led the way, cutting steps as they went. When half way up they
lowered the rope, holding one end, while their companions fastened
the other to the ladder, so that it served them as a kind of
hand-rail, by which to follow. At the top they found themselves on
a terrace, beyond which a far more moderate slope led to the Col of
Roththal, overlooking the Aletsch valley on one side, the Roththal
on the other. From this point the ascent was more and more steep
and very slow, as every step had to be cut. Their difficulties were
increased, also, by a mist which gathered around them, and by the
intense cold. Leuthold kept the party near the border of the ridge,
because there the ice yielded more readily to the stroke of the
axe; but it put their steadiness of nerve to the greatest test, by
keeping the precipice constantly in view, except when hidden by the
fog. Indeed, they could drive their alpenstocks through the
overhanging rim of frozen snow, and look sheer down through the
hole thus made to the amphitheatre below. One of the guides left
them, unable longer to endure the sight of these precipices so
close at hand. As they neared their goal they feared lest the mist
might, at the last, deprive them of the culminating moment for
which they had braved such dangers. But suddenly, as if touched by
their perseverance, says M. Desor, the veil of fog lifted, and the
summit of the Jungfrau, in its final solitude, rose before them.
There was still a certain distance to be passed before they
actually reached the base of the extreme peak. Here they paused,
not without a certain hesitation, for though the summit lay but a
few feet above them, they were separated from it by a sharp and
seemingly inaccessible ridge. Even Agassiz, who was not easily
discouraged, said, as he looked up at this highest point of the
fortress they had scaled "We can never reach it." For all answer,
Jacob Leuthold, their intrepid guide, flinging down everything
which could embarrass his movements, stretched his alpenstock over
the ridge as a grappling pole, and, trampling the snow as he went,
so as to flatten his giddy path for those who were to follow, was
in a moment on the top. To so steep an apex does this famous peak
narrow, that but one person can stand on the summit at a time, nor
was even this possible till the snow was beaten down. Returning on
his steps, Leuthold, whose quiet, unflinching audacity of success
was contagious, assisted each one to stand for a few moments where
he had stood. The fog, the effect of which they had so much feared,
now lent something to the beauty of the view from this sublime
foothold. Masses of vapor rolled up from the Roththal on the
southwest, but, instead of advancing to envelop them, paused at a
little distance arrested by some current from the plain. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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