Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capitalCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capital
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Madrid; Madrid (Spain) -- Description and travel
It was the custom in Northern Europe to propitiate some half-forgotten
infernal deities by burying a pig or a sheep alive in the foundations of
every church. The monastery of San Lorenzo was similarly consecrated by
human and animal sacrifices. After the Hermits of St Jerome (Charles
V.’s favourite order) had established themselves in the incomplete
edifice, it was whispered that a black dog persistently interrupted
their chanting by his howlings. The animal was looked upon by the people
as inspired by God thus to protest against the spoliation of the
peasantry by the Hermits. It turned out that it was only one of the
hounds of the Marquis de las Navas, bewailing his absent master; but the
benevolent monks promptly hanged the poor brute from the roof of their
cloister. In the same year a young man, twenty-four years of age, was
(no doubt for some serious offence) burned at the stake on the spot in
the neighbouring Jardin del Principe marked by a stone cross. Thus with
most solemn rites was the great Christian temple consecrated to Death.
The building constitutes an immense parallelogram, its sides nearly
facing the cardinal points of the compass. The small rectangular annex
called the Palacio de Infantes projecting from the middle of the eastern
face, gives the plan a purely accidental resemblance to a gridiron,
which, according to legend, was the instrument of the titular saint’s
martyrdom. The dimensions, according to a Spanish writer, are 744
Castilian feet from north to south, 580 from east to west, and 400,000
square feet in area. The whole building is of grey granite, and appears
to form an integral part of the rock on which it stands. In its
simplicity and hugeness it might easily be mistaken for the work of
Nature, not of man. Artistically this is perhaps its sole merit, yet, as
I have said, it never fails to awe. The style is that of the second
Renaissance, here called Greco-Roman, which prefers the Doric order and
rejects all superfluous ornament. Each angle is capped by a square
tower, surmounted by a pinnacle. The façades, devoid of all decoration,
are relieved only by rows of small square windows. The upper stories are
faced with blue slate and sheets of lead. The Escorial is rivalled in
simplicity and severity by the Pyramids alone.
The main entrance is in the middle of the west front. The lower stage is
in the Doric style, four columns flanking the doorway on each side. The
door itself is 20 feet high and 12 feet wide, and painted white with
huge copper-gilt studs and knockers. Above is the second stage of the
entrance in the Ionic style. Over the door is the colossal statue of St.
Lawrence in granite, but with the head, hands, and feet in white marble.
The sculptor, Monegro, received 20,900 reales for the Spanish
coat-of-arms carved below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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