Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capitalCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capital
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Madrid; Madrid (Spain) -- Description and travel
Twenty-six marble urns placed in niches round the chamber contain all
that was mortal of the monarchs of Spain and their consorts from
Charles V. to Alfonso XII., Philip V. and Ferdinand VI. excepted. There
are tombs, too, awaiting the living. Ascending the steps we pass the
sealed door of the Pudridero, where the bodies are kept five years
before being placed in the Pantheon, and may visit the burial chambers
reserved to the Infantes and Infantas. Several of the vaults are still
empty. They are in purer, colder style than the heavier Pantheon of the
kings. As one ascends to the living world from these awful chambers, the
question suggests itself, what is the object of it all? The Pyramids of
Nile ought to have convinced man once for all of the hopelessness of any
effort to preserve his body unprofaned and solemnly housed through all
the years. No matter how great the dynasty, how strong the tomb, the day
must come when the jealously and reverently guarded ashes will form the
prey of some ghoulish invader. With Rameses exposed to the gaze of
wondering Cockneys, with Alexander’s tomb an object of curiosity to
tourists in the museum at Stamboul, with the tombs of the kings of Judah
explored on allfours by Cook’s trippers, how can one hope for an eternal
immunity from profanation for the Invalides, for Westminster, for the
Escorial? Kings ought to have learnt the lesson that in the pages of
history alone can they look for an earthly immortality.
The convent occupies the southern part of the building. It was
inhabited, as I have said, by the religious known as the Hermits of St
Jerome or Hieronymites, an Order established or recognised by Pope
Gregory XI. in 1373. If it still exists it counts very few members and
has played an insignificant part in ecclesiastical history compared with
the spiritual descendants of Benedict, Dominic, Francis, Bruno, and
Ignatius. For some reason or other Charles V. held the Hermits in
particular esteem, and it was this predilection that determined his son
to offer them the new monastery in 1561. The Order is likely to be best
remembered by the ecclesiologist for the peculiar plan of its
churches--cruciform, with diagonal lines extending from the ends of the
cross-piece to the head of the upright limb.
The granite cloisters in the Doric style are, or rather were, decorated
with frescoes after designs of Tibaldi, now shockingly “restored.” In
the centre of the Patio de los Evangelistas is a little octagonal
temple, covering a fountain. It is one of Herrera’s best works, in which
granite and marble have been combined with admirable skill. The white
statues of the Evangelists at the corners were sculptured by Monegro;
the appropriate inscriptions are in Latin, Greek, Hebrew and Syriac.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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