The eventful morning was blazingly hot and brilliant,
and the vivid-blue sky was without a cloud as we steamed
down towards Mbenga in the s.s. _Hauroto_. Mr. Vaughan,
an eminent inhabitant of Suva, who has charge of the
Meteorological Department there, was of our party, and
carried the thermometer. This was the most suitable for
our purpose procurable; it was in a strong japanned-tin
casing, and registered 400° Fahr. We had also three
amateur photographers.
Owing to the numerous coral-reefs and shallows, we finally
transhipped into the _Maori_, a steamer of much less
draught. Approaching the silent verdure-clad islet, with
its narrow beach of white coral sand, we saw a thin blue
haze of smoke curling above the lofty cocoanut trees at
a little distance in the interior, which sufficiently
localised the mysterious spot. We now took the ship's
boat, and soon, stepping ashore, made our way through a
narrow pathway in the dense bush until we came to an open
space cleared from the forest, in the midst of which was
the great _lovo_, or oven.
A remarkable and never-to-be-forgotten scene now presented
itself. There were hundreds of Fijians, dressed according
to the rules of nature and their own art--that is, they
were lightly garlanded here and there with their fantastic
_likulikus_ of grass, ornamented with brilliant scarlet
and yellow hibiscus flowers and streamers of the delicate
ribbonwood. These hung in airy profusion from their necks
and around their waists, showing off to advantage their
lovely brown glossy skins. In addition, many wore clean
white cotton _sulus_, or pendant loin-cloths. All were
excited, moving hither and thither in wild confusion, and
making the forest ring again with, their noisy hilarity.
Some climbed the lofty cocoa-palms, hand over hand, foot
over foot, with all the dexterity of monkeys. The top
reached, and shrouded amongst the feathery leaves, they
poured down a shower of nuts for the refreshment of their
guests.
The celerity with which they opened the nuts was something
astonishing, and afforded an example, too, as to the mode
of using stone implements. A stout strong stick, 3 ft.
long, and sharpened at both ends, was driven into the
ground, and a few smart strokes upon it soon tore from the
nut its outer thick covering. The upper part of the shell
was then broken off by means of a long sharp-edged stone
as cleanly and regularly as the lid of an egg is removed
with a knife, and then was disclosed a pint of delicious
milk--a most welcome beverage on that over-poweringly hot
day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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