Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
set of sightseers it is impossible to conceive, and for some time
they regularly blockaded us, almost to suffocation. While impatiently
waiting for the officials in the full blaze of the afternoon sun, both
parties found ample interest in surveying each other. To us the first
sight of the peculiar but picturesque dress of the good-looking Shan
women was probably as attractive as our physiognomies and attire seemed
to be to the natives. The head-dress was a long blue turban, curled
in crescent-shaped folds with neat precision, towering nearly a foot
above the head, and inclined backwards in an inverted cone, displaying
the back of the head adorned with large silver discs. Add to this,
neat little white or blue jackets slashed with red, fastened with
enamelled silver brooches, and exposing plump little arms adorned with
heavy silver bracelets, blue petticoats with deeply embroidered silken
borders, fanciful gaiters, and blue shoes, and the reader can imagine
that the curious crowd of Manwyne was picturesque.
There was a good sprinkling of Chinese women with dwarfed feet, but
they were much more poorly clad than the prosperous-looking Shans.
The men, Shan and Chinese, were all dressed in dark blue jackets and
trousers, the Shans being distinguished by blue turbans with the
pigtail wound into their coils, while the Chinese wore skull-caps.
Almost all carried long-stemmed pipes. After some delay and
expostulation with the headmen, we were inducted into a Buddhist
khyoung or temple, standing in a separate courtyard just within the
town, but entered through a gate of its own in the town wall. It was
a low square building, facing the river, built partly of bricks and
partly of wood, on a rubble foundation, and roofed with fired tiles.
It had two roofs, the upper in itself somewhat like a smaller khyoung
perched on the top of the larger, with two latticed windows in each
of its curved sides, and borne up by strong teak pillars. At either
end two wooden partitions shut off the cells of the priests and their
pupils. A kitchen in one corner completed the domestic arrangements,
unless we may include two or three new coffins, and materials for
more, piled ready in one corner of the verandah. A long table was
covered with models of pagodas, enclosing seated figures of Gaudama,
one principal Buddha occupying the centre, with an umbrella suspended
over his head. This seemed to serve as an altar, on which two large
candles were placed during the evening prayers, intoned with bell
accompaniments, strongly reminding us of the Catholic mass. In the
verandah three square niches faced this altar, one containing the image
of a horse.
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