Virgil was right in recommending shade for each colony. Bees are forced to cluster outside the hive, where the hives are subjected to the full force of the sun's rays. By the intense heat, the temperature inside becomes like that of an oven, and the wonder is that they do not desert entirely. I have known hives, thus unprotected, to be covered by bees, idling outside, when by simply shading the hives, all would go merrily to work. The combs, too, and foundation especially, are liable, in unshaded hives, to melt and fall down, which is very damaging to the bees, and very vexatious to the apiarist. The remedy for all this is to always have the hives so situated that they will be entirely shaded all through the heat of the day. This might be done by constructing a shed or house, but these are expensive and inconvenient, and, therefore, to be discarded. Perhaps the Coe house-apiary (Chap. XVIII) may prove an exception; but, as yet, we have no reliable assurance of the fact. If the apiarist has a convenient grove, this may be trimmed high, so as not to be damp, and will fulfill every requirement. So arrange the hives that while they are shaded through all the heat of the day, they will receive the sun's rays early and late, and thus the bees will work more hours. I always face my hives to the east. If no grove is at command, the hives maybe placed on the north of a Concord grape-vine, or other vigorous variety, as the apiarist may prefer. This should be trained to a trellis, which may be made by setting two posts, either of cedar or oak. Let these extend four or five feet above the ground, and be three or four feet apart. Connect them at intervals of eighteen inches with three galvanized wires, the last one being at the top of the posts. Thus we can have shade and grapes, and can see for ourselves that bees do not injure grapes. If preferred, we may use ever-greens for this purpose, which can be kept low, and trimmed square and close on the north. These can be got at once, and are superior in that they furnish ample shade at all seasons. Norway spruce is the best. These should be at least six feet apart. A. I. Root's idea of having the vines of each succeeding row divide the spaces of the previous row, in quincunx order, is very good; though I should prefer the rows in this case to be four, instead of three feet apart, especially with ever-greens. Until protecting shade can be thus permanently secured, boards should be arranged for temporary protection. Many apiarists economize by using fruit trees for this purpose, which, from their spreading tops, answer very well.