The rabbet may equal a little more than one-half the thickness of the board. Heavy tin strips (Fig. 33), three-fourths of an inch wide, should be tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach one-fourth of an inch above the shoulder. These are to bear the frames, and are convenient, as they prevent the frames from becoming glued to the hive. We are thus able to loosen the frames without jarring the bees. I would not have hives without such tin rabbets, though some apiarists, among whom is Mr. James Heddon, of this State, whose rank as a successful apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection to them is cost, and liability of the frames to move when the hive is moved. But with their use we are not compelled to pry the frames loose, and are not so likely to irritate the bees, while making an examination of the contents of the hive, which arguments are conclusive with me. Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has not a buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the style of making common dry-goods boxes (Fig. 30). In this case, the sides not rabbeted should project by, else the corners will have to be stopped up where they were rabbeted. [Illustration: Fig. 31. _Bevel-Gauge._] The mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, and unite them by a miter-joint (Fig. 33). This looks a little better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is difficult to form accurate joints--_and as everything about the hive should be_ ACCURATE _and_ UNIFORM--this style is not to be recommended to the general apiarist. To miter with a hand-saw unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect miter-box, and, even then, much care is required to secure perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have only to make a carrier as follows: Take two boards (Fig. 31. _a, b_), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be sure that they form a perfect right-angle. Then bevel the ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third board (Fig. 31, c), firmly nailed to the others. We thus have a triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make longitudinal slits (Fig. 31, _d_), so that this can be bolted firmly to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge of this a narrow board (Fig. 31, _e_) should be nailed, which will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut. Such a carrier (Fig. 31) I ordered for my Barnes' saw, from a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50.