The condition of Italy has been greatly altered for the better since Margaret wrote these words, thirty-six years ago; but the American traveller of this type is to-day, to all intents and purposes, what he was then. Margaret left Milan before the end of this September, to return to Rome. She explored with delight the great Certosa of Pavia, and in Parma saw the Correggio pictures, of which she says: "A wonderful beauty it is that informs them,--not that which is the chosen food of my soul, yet a noble beauty, and which did its message to me also." Parma and Modena appear to her "obliged to hold their breath while their poor, ignorant sovereigns skulk in corners, hoping to hide from the coming storm." Before reaching Rome, Margaret made a second visit to Florence. The liberty of the press had been recently established in Tuscany, under happy auspices. This freedom took effect in the establishment of two liberal papers, "Alba" ("The Dawn"), and "Patria," needless to translate. The aim of these was to educate the youth and the working classes, by promoting fearlessness in thought and temperance in action. The creation of the National Guard had given confidence to the people. Shortly before Margaret's arrival this event had been celebrated by a grand public festival, preceded by a general reconciliation of public and private differences, and culminating in a general embracing, and exchanging of banners. She speaks of this as a "new great covenant of brotherly love," in which "all was done in that beautiful poetic manner peculiar to this artist-people." In this feast of reconciliation resident Americans bore their part, Horatio Greenough taking the lead among them. Margaret's ears were refreshed by continually hearing in the streets the singing of the Roman hymn composed in honor of Pope Pius. Wishing that her own country might send some substantial token of sympathy to the land of its great discoverers, she suggests that a cannon, named for one of these, would be the most fitting gift.[C] The first letter from Rome after these days is dated Oct. 18, 1847. CHAPTER XIII. PERIOD OF AGITATION IN ROME.--MARGARET'S ZEAL FOR ITALIAN FREEDOM.--HER RETURN TO ROME.--REVIEW OF THE CIVIC GUARD.--CHURCH FASTS AND FEASTS.--POPE PIUS.--THE RAINY SEASON.--PROMISE OF REPRESENTATIVE GOVERNMENT IN ROME.--CELEBRATION OF THIS EVENT.--MAZZINI'S LETTER TO THE POPE.--BEAUTY OF THE SPRING.--ITALY IN REVOLUTION.--POPULAR EXCITEMENTS IN ROME.--POPE PIUS DESERTS THE CAUSE OF FREEDOM.--MARGARET LEAVES ROME FOR AQUILA.