There was a time when, rather far away for foot travel, the Bois might
be considered a driving park for the rich. It fairly blazed with the
ostentatious splendor of the Second Empire; the shoddy Duke with his
shady retinue, in gilded coach-and-four; the world-famous courtesan,
bedizened with costly jewels and quite as well known as the Empress;
the favorites of the Tuileries, the Comédie Française, the Opera, the
Jardin Mabille, forming an unceasing and dazzling line of many-sided
frivolity from the Port de Ville to the Port St. Cloud, circling round
La Bagatelle and ranging about the Cafe Cascade, a human tiara of
diamonds, a moving bouquet of laces and rubies, of silks and satins and
emeralds and sapphires. Those were the days when the Due de Morny, half
if not full brother of the Emperor, ruled as king of the Bourse, and
Cora Pearl, a clever and not at all good-looking Irish girl gone wrong,
reigned as Queen of the Demimonde.
All this went by the board years ago. Everywhere, more or less,
electricity has obliterated distinctions of rank and wealth. It has
circumvented lovers and annihilated romance. The Republic ousted the
bogus nobility. The subways and the tram cars connect the Bois de
Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes so closely that the poorest may make
himself at home in either or both.
The automobile, too, oddly enough, is proving a very leveller. The
crowd recognizes nobody amid the hurly-burly of coupes, pony-carts, and
taxicabs, each trying to pass the other. The conglomeration of
personalities effaces the identity alike of the statesman and the
artist, the savant and the cyprian. No six-inch rules hedge the shade
of the trees and limit the glory of the grass. The _ouvrier_ can bring
his brood and his basket and have his picnic where he pleases. The
pastry cook and his chére amie, the coiffeur and his grisette can spoon
by the lake-side as long as the moonlight lasts, and longer if they
list, with never a gendarme to say them nay, or a rude voice out of the
depths hoarsely to declaim, “allez!” The Bois de Boulogne is literally
and absolutely a playground, the playground of the people, and this
last Sunday of mine, not fewer than half a million of Parisians were
making it their own.
Half of these encircled the Longchamps racecourse. The other half were
shared by the boats upon the lagoons and the bosky dells under the
summer sky and the cafés and the restaurants with which the Bois
abounds. Our party, having exhausted the humors of the drive, repaired
to Pré Catalan. Aside from the “two old brides” who are always in
evidence on such occasions, there was a veritable “young couple,”
exceedingly pretty to look at, and delightfully in love! That sort of
thing is not so uncommon in Paris as cynics affect to think.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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