I was much amused by an anecdote which was related to me as having
happened some years before the time of which I am speaking. Prince
Demidoff was very hospitable to foreigners, and an English lady having
received an invitation to a _soirée_ at this villa, arrayed herself in
the best ornaments contained in her jewel-box, which were not of a very
costly description. It was at a time when, in England at least,
malachite was very much used, not only for table ornaments, such as
ink-stands and paper-weights, but also occasionally for brooches,
earrings, and the like, or what then were called _sevignés_. Thus
decorated, our countrywoman took her way to Prince Demidoff’s reception,
but her consternation was great when, on entering the noble suite of
apartments, she found that the chimney-pieces, the consoles, and the
very doors themselves were constructed of the identical material which
formed her _parure_.
During our stay at Careggi, I had provided myself with an independent
little vehicle in which I drove occasionally into Florence, to pay a
visit to Félicie de Fauveau. I was invariably stopped at the gate of the
city, and interrogated by a pompous official as to whether I had
anything contraband to declare. “Oh dear yes,” said I one day, impatient
at being delayed, “two apricots and a book,” which reply made my driver
laugh aloud. My coachman was a bright young fellow who rejoiced in the
classical name of Œdipus. He had been educated at a Jesuit school, and
spoke his native language with great purity, and even eloquence. It is
certainly remarkable to listen to the choice selection of words used by
the lower classes in Tuscany. The common saying of “lingua Toscana in
bocca Romana,” is strikingly true, for the guttural pronunciation of the
Florentines—inherited doubtless from the Spaniards—contrasts
disadvantageously with the soft, so to speak, languishing, cadence of
the Roman dialect.
[Sidenote: BATHS OF CASCIANO]
I made a delightful little expedition in my own _carretella_ to the
Baths of Casciano, near Pisa, to pay a visit of two days to Félicie de
Fauveau and her mother. It was a whole day’s journey, and we halted
half-way, if I remember right, at the picturesque, fortified old town,
to bait our little stout Calabrian pony. I found Œdipus a delightful
travelling companion, for he knew the history and the legends of the
country through which we passed, and I was quite sorry to bid him
good-bye, for it was settled I should return with my friends.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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