We were all delighted with the Baths at Lucca, and the picturesque
environs. The surrounding hills were covered with Spanish chestnut
trees, which retained their fresh spring green during the whole of the
summer, and the cool, refreshing river Lima, which runs through the
valley, tempered and mitigated the heat of those months, that to some of
our compatriots appeared excessive. My brother and I hired ponies, and
in the company of two Englishmen, his friends, we rode every day, making
excursions into all the beautiful little towns which crowned the
neighbouring mountains, a pleasure which was heightened by the fact that
our dear mother was sometimes able to join us in these pilgrimages,
being carried in a chair by the sure-footed peasants of the country, who
made no difficulty in ascending the hill-sides, however steep.
As the spring came on, the wild-flowers were a constant source of
delight to us, although our botany was of no scientific nature. There is
a thistle there which grew by the roadside and in the fields, that I
have never seen elsewhere, though perhaps I prove my ignorance in
thinking it to be a rare specimen; in shape it resembles a small
sunflower, but the centre is violet, and the small and numerous petals
shine like mother-of-pearl or glistening opal. I was very fond of
wearing it in my hair, in those days when it was the fashion to dress
the head with natural flowers, in a country where even men, especially
fishermen, were frequently seen with a rose, a carnation, or some sweet
flower fixed behind one ear.
One day as we were riding along, about five miles from the Baths, my
brother and I were surprised at being accosted by a peasant in very good
English. We slackened our pace and entered into conversation with him,
enquiring how it was that he spoke our language so well. He told us that
he had been many years in England, carrying about a tray of
plaster-casts on his head through the streets. This is a custom which
has become less frequent, but when I was a child, nothing tempted my
scanty store of pocket-money more than one of what I called those “white
images,” and I well remember the delight I felt in the possession of a
young Apollo. When I saw the original in after years I hailed it as an
old acquaintance. The man told us that most of the people in that line
of trade came from the village through which we were at that moment
riding, and that those who were successful in their business usually
returned to end their days, small blame to them, in their beautiful
country.
[Sidenote: THE BODDINGTONS]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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