“_December 31st._--Rather cloudy; heavy rain about sundown. Fine night. Went, roughly, say three miles further north across turf, to the river where I thought Tibakai was encamped, but found we were too much to the left, so after crossing the river kept down it about three-quarters of a mile to his camp. John was in front, hurrying on with one of his boys, but when he came near the huts, stopped and hid behind a bush, from which he was peering when we joined him. Here he wanted to stay and send for Tibakai to talk, our object being to get two Bushmen from him to go with us to the Zambesi, for corn. I ordered him and the boys to march on to the huts, and not stop at a distance now that they knew we were there. John was in a great funk, but found, with Tibakai, a hunter whom he knew. I left the boys and traps under a tree amongst the huts, and went with the doctor and John to have an interview with Tibakai. He is a Mungwato headman, with one or two of his own people, but all the rest are Bushmen, hunting for him, and staying with him with their families. Tibakai said we could not go to the Falls--he was captain here. Hearing, however, we did not come to hunt, he said we might go but must make our scherm here, and stay till to-morrow, when we might visit the Falls and return. He then conceded that we might have two Bushmen, whom he would give us to-night when they returned from hunting, but said we _must_ sleep here to-night. I said we must go, and he could do as he pleased about the Bushmen. After this he again said we must stay to-night. This I flatly refused to do, and had already told him we should shoot elephants if we saw them. John wanted me to stay, and refused to come away. I ordered the boys to start, they having already told me they were willing, and again for the third time called John. We then started, all but him, and there was a great stir in the place; caps snapping, and one fellow running out with his gun. We moved on, I on the flank ready to fire; but it was not necessary. John remained behind, but, seeing us get away, joined us, and, when I upbraided him, said he was only waiting to see what they would do.” And now a walk of some twelve or fifteen miles brought them to the goal. The latter part--five miles or so--of this was over rolling ground, and here, as they advanced, they soon began to see more clearly the distant clouds of vapour from the Falls, and hear them more distinctly. The trees, before thinly scattered, were now fine and close together, and for a time obscured the view. Then shortly, through an opening in their midst, the columns of spray again were visible, now quite near, and the party pressed quickly on. The sun was about to set, and clouds were gathering, as if for an approaching storm. Stopping to shelter from a heavy shower just above the river, the first sight of Metse-a-tunya was here caught through the trees, and a halt was ordered for the night. [Illustration: WOODEN PILLOW.]