“Starting again at 4 P.M., we next went over rising ground, the country getting very clear of timber, and at half-past six stopped at a small spruit with water in it, having crossed two previously. A long, dry, treeless plain here stretched before us, with kopjes rising into ranges against the horizon. It seems the spruit we are now outspanned at is the head-waters of a river flowing into the Limpopo, and where we were outspanned this morning is the head-waters of Kumala River, which flows into the Zambesi.” The day afterwards a short trek of about three miles brought the traveller to the King’s Town, as related in the ensuing chapter. CHAPTER IV. Arrival at Gubuleweyo--Interview with the King--Start for the Zambesi--Hope Fountain--Inyati--Difficulty of obtaining bearers--The Zambesi abandoned--Hunting expedition on the Umvungu and Gwailo Rivers--Experiences of a half-caste--Birds’ nests--The indunas’ tree--Hunting--A lunar eclipse--Return to Gubuleweyo--Wild fruit. The account of Frank Oates’s present stay at Gubuleweyo, and his first impressions of the town and its inhabitants, taken from his Journal, is somewhat scanty. This was one of those more striking episodes in the journey, which needed no written record to impress their details upon his mind, and the narrative of which in this, as in other similar instances, is consequently the most wanting, where the reader would naturally expect and desire to find it the fullest. The account, such as it is, of his arrival at the town, and the first two days spent there, is taken as follows from his Journal:-- “_September 15th._--Another trek of about an hour and a half brought us, about 9 A.M., to Gubuleweyo. There is not much timber as the kraal is approached. The scene is picturesque but desolate, the road winding and steep. Some of the peculiar-looking trees[19] are here of great size. Strings of women were carrying vessels of water on their heads as we arrived. It was bitterly cold, and there was both wind and rain. Fairbairn and a number of others were standing about the kraal. Petersen was there, and introduced me. They asked me in, and I drew up my waggon to Fairbairn’s ‘scherm,’[20] and had breakfast with them. Fairbairn and Petersen took me to the king, whom I called on out of compliment, telling him that I had not yet unpacked my waggon--a hint that I should have a present for him. He was very gracious, and placed meat and plates before me, and inquired what sport I had had coming up, noticing the dilapidated state of my dress. I was going out of the hut legs first, when he pulled me back and made me go head first. He sent me to look at his new house, of which he is very proud. It is being built of brick by an Englishman.