Africa, Southern -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, Southern
“I find there is a good opportunity of writing a line home,
as a trader is going with a waggon straight to Hope Town, and
starts to-morrow. He has only been a fortnight coming here from
Bamangwato, so he travels pretty quickly. You will, no doubt,
before you get this, have received the last letter I sent you,
in which I think I told you that my visit to the Victoria Falls
had been abandoned. I was within 150 to 200 miles of them, and
had made every preparation for the journey, having got the
king’s leave to proceed, escorted by one of his chief men, and
was already packing the things for the bearers to carry (twenty
was the number I required, though I should have been content
with fifteen), when all at once the unforeseen difficulty of
getting a sufficient number of them presented itself. The king
had told me there would be no difficulty, but I was then fifty
miles from him, having taken my waggon to be left at Inyati,
whence I was starting on my walk to the Falls. I see now
clearly enough that I was deceived by the man who was given to
assist me, or by the headman of Inyati, who had made no attempt
to get the men for me, but lulled me with fair promises, whilst
in reality doing all he could to prevent my obtaining them. The
fact was my guide did not wish me to go to the Zambesi; partly,
no doubt, because they would have had to hurry more than might
have been agreeable, but principally from fear of the fever, of
which they have a great dread. The king, however, knew what he
was doing when he assured me that for two months to come there
was no danger whatever, and this was far more time than enough
to accomplish my much-desired object.
“I have now spent two months in the neighbourhood of Inyati,
sometimes leaving the waggon for days, and sleeping in the
veldt. This was always satisfactorily managed even on a pouring
wet night, as the Kafirs in a few minutes build you a hut of
branches, perfectly water-tight, with a bed of dry grass upon
which to place your bedding. Two Englishmen, tourists, have
visited the Falls this season, and I hear that one of them said
they were so fine he would rather walk barefoot from Durban
to see them than leave them unseen. (Mrs. Thomson, finding me
writing in the dark, has just sent Mr. T. to me with a candle,
which I hope will improve the style of my letter, for I fear it
wants it.) The old guide, who was given me by the king, and
whom I suspect of doing me out of the Zambesi, was very anxious
for me to go to the king to-day, as he has to deliver me back
to him in person, and never lets me go out of his sight for a
moment if he can help it. This opportunity of writing home,
however, is keeping me this evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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