Africa, Southern -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, Southern
It was the 6th of February when Frank Oates left John Lee’s, and
the 9th when he reached the Inkwesi River. The country round Lee’s
farm is of a somewhat striking character, and, though much healthier
than most of the surrounding district, is not wholly free from the
annoyances elsewhere occasioned by the summer rains. “The scenery
here,” writes Frank Oates, “with the swollen current of the river and
huge magnificent boulders, is as fine in its way as any one would wish
to see. The gardens, however, which have suffered terribly from the
drought, are now suffering equally from the wet. They require both
irrigation for the dry, and drainage for the rainy, season.” The way in
which Lee lived with his family round him, and the sort of relationship
existing between them, afforded an odd example of a Dutchman’s life in
the interior. “It reminds one,” says the traveller, “of feudal times:
old Lee, the lord; his brother, a wretched serf; his father-in-law, not
much better; and all his poor relations living about in little huts
round his big house.”
Amongst the waggons stationed at John Lee’s during Frank Oates’s stay
there was that of Smith, the Dutchman, whom he had formerly met on
his way up country, near the Impakwe River. Smith was now starting on
a hunting trip towards the Tati, and the two again agreed to travel
together. Before leaving Frank Oates engaged John Lee’s brother, Karl,
to accompany him as driver to Bamangwato.
The country was still heavy, though somewhat improved by the last few
days of comparatively dry weather. A few miles before reaching the
Inkwesi, the road lay through bush veldt and corn-fields, with kopjes
interspersed at intervals. “The corn-fields are close to the road,”
writes Frank Oates, “and a large fence renders the road so narrow that
it is a difficult matter to drive a waggon. Some of my loose oxen
crossed a corn-field, and of course a row was made. The Hottentot,
Klaas, from Lee’s, had to give a coat, and some lead and powder,
because when he stuck his oxen trampled the corn whilst in the yoke,
the road being altogether hemmed in by the corn-fields. Karl says he
will get the extortionate payment refunded when John Lee knows. This is
the second crop of Indian corn, the former one having been destroyed by
locusts. We passed the Hottentot during this trek; he had had to kill
one of his best oxen, his driver having broken the ox’s leg by throwing
a stone. Here we come,” continues the writer, “to the last kraal, and
outspan, about two miles from the Inkwesi, amongst the kopjes. There
is a fine sugar-loaf-shaped kopje, craggy and tree-covered to the top,
and very steep. I wish I had time to try the ascent; there must be
a glorious view from it. The colours on the stones from lichens are
most beautiful, yellow predominating. The Kafirs were most impudent
and troublesome. The headman, a young fellow in European clothes, is
a good-looking and well-behaved fellow. He sat on my front-box; our
object is to get boys from him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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