“I have not made much progress in French; everyone speaks
English except the _ouvriers_. I address a waiter in a splendid
sentence, which I expect will strike him with awe, and impress
him with my knowledge of the French language, and he takes me
down by answering in English; as much as to say, ‘For goodness’
sake speak your own language, and I shall understand you
better.’ In such a state of things, one can only listen to the
conversation of Frenchmen with one another, and try to imitate
their accent. In spite of beard and mustachios, it is _Voilà
les Anglais_ wherever we go. The only person who passes for a
Frenchman is one of our American fellow-travellers, who has
grown a most venerable beard; but, as he pronounces French
just as if it were English, and calls Dijon ‘_Dee John_,’ he
is afraid to open his mouth for fear of being convicted as an
impostor immediately. I think an Englishman’s walk betrays him;
I think there is an unconscious swagger about it, which savours
strongly of ‘ros-bif,’ and which the French detect in a moment.
However, they are most polite and obliging, and I think they
would be glad to do you any service.”
In Italy, he went from city to city, revelling in picture galleries
and studios, as his eyes regained strength; taking lessons in Italian,
visiting spots of historical interest, and sympathising with, and
appreciating, the Italians, while wondering at their patience under the
yoke of their Governments. It was the same winter which Mr. Gladstone
spent in Italy, and signalized by his pamphlet on the political prisoners
at Naples. Fortunately for my brother, he found Mr. Senior and his family
at Naples, and again at Rome, and through their kindness, and that of
Lady Malcolm, saw as much of Italian society as he cared for. A few
selections from his letters will show you how he spent his time, and the
impressions which his Italian travel left on his mind:—
“NAPLES, _January 7, 1851_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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