I have never been presented to the present Pope, but I gather from my friends in Rome that his administration is, as usual, a rather complicated affair. The ruling power is Cardinal Rampolla, the Mephisto of the Church, for whom a distinguished Marchesa has a _salon_ and entertains, so that, in this way, he can meet people on neutral ground. On our return trip we crossed Mont Cenis by diligence. From Lombardy, with the smell of orange flowers all about us, we mounted up and up until the green growing things became fewer and frailer, and the air chillier and more rarified. Between six and seven thousand feet up we struck snow and changed to a sleigh. We made the whole trip in eleven hours--a record in those days. Think of it, you modern tourists who cross Mont Cenis in three! But you will do well to envy us our diligence and sleigh just the same, for you--oh, horrors!--have to do it through a tunnel instead of over a mountain pass! We felt quite adventurous, for it was generally considered a rather hazardous undertaking. By March first we were back again in Paris and, before the end of the month, Mr. Jarrett and Arditi joined us with my renewed contract with Colonel Mapleson. It seemed to me a very short period before it was time for me to go back to Drury Lane for the real London season. Spring had come and Mapleson was ready to make a record opera season; so we said good-bye to our friends in Paris and turned once more toward England. CHAPTER XVI FELLOW-ARTISTS My mother's diary reads as follows: _March 25_ Left Paris for London accompanied by Arditi and Mr. Jarrett. Came by Dover and Calais. Very sick. Had a band on the boat to entice the passengers into the idea that everything was lovely and there is no such thing as seasickness. Arrived in London at ten minutes before six. _28._ Went out house-hunting. Rooms too small. _29._ House-hunting. Dirty houses. A vast difference between American and English housekeeping. Couldn't stand it. Visited ten. Col. Chandler came in the evening. Miss Jarrett went with us. _30._ Went again. Saw a highfalutin Lady who said she wanted to get a _fancy price_ for her house. Couldn't see it. _April 1st._ Miss Jarrett, Lou and I started again and had about given up the ship when Louise discovered a house with "to let" on it. So we ventured in without cards. Lovely! _Neat_ and _nice_. Beautiful large garden, lawn, etc. We were taken to see the Agent who had it in charge. When we got outside we 3 embraced each other and I screamed with _joy_. She (the Landlady) was the first to have a house "to let" that was not painted and powdered an inch thick. _2._ Rehearsal of _Traviata_ for the 4th. Three hours long. Bettini, Santley, Poley and "Miss Kellogg." _3._ Stage rehearsal.