Memoirs of an American Prima DonnaKellogg, Clara Louise
General
Memoirs of an American Prima Donna
Kellogg, Clara Louise
Kellogg, Clara Louise, 1842-1916; Singers -- United States -- Biography
My memory of the trip and of the Yellowstone Park consists of a series
of strangely beautiful and primitive pictures. We passed through a
prairie fire, when the atmosphere was so hot and dense that extra
pressure of steam was put on our locomotive to rush our train through
it. Never before had I seen Indian women carrying their papooses. I
particularly recall one settlement of wigwams on a still, wonderful
evening, the chiefs gorgeous in their blankets, when the fires were
being lighted and the spirals of smoke were ascending straight up into
the clear atmosphere. One day a couple of Indians ran after the train.
They looked very fine as they ran and finally succeeded in getting on
to the rear platform, where they rode for some distance. At Deer Lodge I
sang all of one evening to two fine specimens of Indian manhood. We went
down the Columbia River in a boat, greatly enjoying the impressive
scenery. One of my most vivid mental impressions was that of an Indian
fisherman, standing high out over the rushing waters, at least forty
feet up, on a projection of some kind that had been built for the
purpose of salmon fishing, his graceful, vigorous bronze form clearly
silhouetted against the background of rock and foliage and sky. On the
banks of the river farther along we saw a circus troupe boiling their
supper in a huge caldron and smoking the _kalama_ or peace pipe. I was
so hungry I wanted to eat of the caldron's contents but, on second
thoughts, refrained. And we stopped at Astoria where the canning of
salmon was done, a town built out over the river on piles. The forest
fires had caused some confusion and, for one while, we could hardly
breathe because of the smoke. Indeed we travelled days and days through
that smoke. The first cowboy I ever saw drove me from the station of
Livingston through Yellowstone Park. In Butte City my company went down
into the Clarke Copper Mine, but I did not care to join them in the
undertaking. Our first sight of Puget Sound was very beautiful. And it
was at Puget Sound that I first saw half-, or, rather, quarter-breeds. I
remember Pond saying how quickly the half-breeds die of consumption.
Later, that same year, I went South again on another concert tour. All
through the State of Mississippi there was a strange, horrible flavour
to the food, I recall, and, so all-pervading was this flavour that
finally I could hardly eat anything. The contralto and I were talking
about it one day on the train and saying how glad we should be to get
away from it. There being no parlour-cars, we were in an ordinary coach,
and a woman who sat in front of me and overheard us, turned around and
said:
"_I_ know what you mean! _I_ can tell you what it is. It's cotton seed.
Everything tastes of cotton seed in this country. They feed their cows
on it, and their chickens. _Everything_ tastes of it; eggs, butter,
biscuits, milk!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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