Of the other residences that shared the cares of Count Federigo,
Gubbio was the most important. Sanzi describes it as facing the
south-east, and flanked by mountains on the north, overlooking fertile
valleys and smiling champaigns, and excelling the attractions of
Urbino in charming prospects and pleasant pathways. Notwithstanding
the general truth of this eulogy, nothing could be more consistent
with beauty or convenience than its site, planted on a slope, with the
cathedral right in front, crowded round with poor buildings, and
accessible only by precipitous alleys. Its architecture is disputed
between Francesco di Giorgio and Baccio Pontelli,[*131] nor would it
add much credit to either, its sole merit being minute decorations in
hewn work and inlaid panelling, both after the style we have described
at Urbino. Although the initials of the two Montefeltrian dukes appear
in these, it is believed to have been chiefly built by Guidobaldo, and
the oak-tree cognisance of the Della Rovere indicates in some parts a
still later date. The constant recurrence of the Garter among its
ornamental devices is gratifying to the very rare English visitors of
this Apennine town, but no traveller of taste and intelligence can be
otherwise than shocked to find this once chosen sanctuary of Italian
refinement and high breeding, the residence in which Castiglione
recounted his reception at the Tudor court, and where Fregoso and
Bembo were successively bishops, degraded to vile uses and menaced by
speedy ruin. It is now in the hands of a person who there manufactures
wax candles and silk, but on my second visit in 1843 was closed up
entirely and inaccessible. I owe to the obliging attention of Signor
Luigi Bonfatti, a local antiquary of taste and intelligence, who is
preparing a work on the early painters of Gubbio, this notice of the
building and its remaining decorations: "Differing much from the
architecture at Urbino, its court-yard is very fine, of the mixed or
composite style usual in that age. The windows, doors, and chimneys
have stone lintels, exquisitely chiselled in low relief with masterly
arabesque designs, those in the interior being touched with gold. The
ceilings, now partially decayed, are all of wood, in half-relief
compartments, with heavy cornices, and roses coloured and gilded. The
palace was completed by Duke Guidobaldo, who commissioned the cabinet
or closet of superb _intarsia_, thirteen by six and a half feet. This
tiny room is nineteen feet high, but the inlaid work goes only
half-way up. It is of the finest patterns and workmanship, including
several emblematic representations of music, literature, physical
science, geography, and war. On the cornice is an inscription now in
part illegible.... It was, in my opinion, the work of Antonio Mastei
of Gubbio, a famous artist in wood, who executed the beautiful choir
of S. Fortunato at Todi, and who is known to have been much in favour
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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