Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
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Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
"_2d August_.--At sea in the mouth of the Moray Firth. This day almost
a blank--light baffling airs, which do us very little good; most of
the landsmen sick, more or less; piquet, backgammon, and chess, the
only resources.--_P.M._ A breeze, and we begin to think we have passed
the Fair Isle, lying between Shetland and Orkney, at which it was our
intention to have touched. In short, like one of Sinbad's adventures,
we have run on till neither captain nor pilot know exactly where we
are. The breeze increases--weather may be called rough; worse and
worse after we are in our berths, nothing but booming, trampling, and
whizzing of waves about our ears, and ever and anon, as we fall
asleep, our ribs come in contact with those of the vessel; hail Duff
and the Udaller[62] in the after-cabin, but they are too sick to
answer. Towards morning, calm (comparative), and a nap.
"_3d August_.--At sea as before; no appearance of land; proposed that
the Sheriff of Zetland do issue a _meditatione fugæ_ warrant against
his territories, which seem to fly from us. Pass two whalers; speak
the nearest, who had come out of Lerwick, which is about twenty miles
distant; stand on with a fine breeze. About nine at night, with
moonlight and strong twilight, we weather the point of Bard-head, and
enter a channel about three quarters of a mile broad which forms the
southern entrance to the harbor of Lerwick, where we cast anchor about
half-past ten, and put Mr. Turnbull on shore.
"_4th August_.--Harbor of Lerwick. Admire the excellence of this
harbor of the metropolis of Shetland. It is a most beautiful place,
screened on all sides from the wind by hills of a gentle elevation.
The town, a fishing village built irregularly upon a hill ascending
from the shore, has a picturesque appearance. On the left is Fort
Charlotte, garrisoned of late by two companies of veterans. The
Greenlandmen, of which nine fine vessels are lying in the harbor, add
much to the liveliness of the scene. Mr. Duncan, Sheriff-substitute,
came off to pay his respects to his principal; he is married to a
daughter of my early acquaintance, Walter Scott of Scotshall. We go
ashore. Lerwick, a poor-looking place, the streets flagged instead of
being causewayed, for there are no wheel-carriages. The streets full
of drunken riotous sailors from the whale-vessels. It seems these
ships take about 1000 sailors from Zetland every year, and return them
as they come back from the fishery. Each sailor may gain from £20 to
£30, which is paid by the merchants of Lerwick, who have agencies from
the owners of the whalers in England. The whole return may be between
£25,000 and £30,000. These Zetlanders, as they get a part of this pay
on landing, make a point of treating their English messmates, who get
drunk of course, and are very riotous. The Zetlanders themselves do
_not_ get drunk, but go straight home to their houses, and reserve
their hilarity for the winter season, when they spend their wages in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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