Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
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Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
"We visit the cathedral, dedicated to St. Magnus, which greeted the
Sheriff's approach with a merry peal. Like that of Glasgow, this
church has escaped the blind fury of Reformation. It was founded in
1138, by Ronald, Earl of Orkney, nephew of the Saint. It is of great
size, being 260 feet long, or thereabout, and supported by
twenty-eight Saxon pillars, of good workmanship. The round arch
predominates in the building, but I think not exclusively. The
steeple (once a very high spire) rises upon four pillars of great
strength, which occupy each angle of the nave. Being destroyed by
lightning, it was rebuilt upon a low and curtailed plan. The
appearance of the building is rather massive and gloomy than
elegant, and many of the exterior ornaments, carving around the
doorways, etc., have been injured by time. We entered the cathedral,
the whole of which is kept locked, swept, and in good order,
although only the eastern end is used for divine worship. We walked
some time in the nave and western end, which is left unoccupied, and
has a very solemn effect as the avenue to the place of worship.
There were many tombstones on the floor and elsewhere; some,
doubtless, of high antiquity. One, I remarked, had the shield of
arms hung by the corner, with a helmet above it of a large
proportion, such as I have seen on the most ancient seals. But we
had neither time nor skill to decipher what noble Orcadian lay
beneath. The church is as well fitted up as could be expected; much
of the old carved oak remains, but with a motley mixture of modern
deal pews. All, however, is neat and clean, and does great honor to
the kirk-session who maintain its decency. I remarked particularly
Earl Patrick's seat, adjoining to that of the magistrates, but
surmounting it and every other in the church: it is surrounded with
a carved screen of oak, rather elegant, and bears his arms and
initials, and the motto I have noticed. He bears the royal arms
_without any mark of bastardy_ (his father was a natural son of
James V.) quarterly, with a lymphad or galley, the ancient arms of
the county. This circumstance was charged against him on his
trial.[74] I understand the late Mr. Gilbert Laing Meason left the
interest of £1000 to keep up this cathedral.
"There are in the street facing the cathedral the ruins of a much
more ancient castle; a proper feudal fortress belonging to the Earls
of Orkney, but called the King's Castle. It appears to have been
very strong, being situated near the harbor, and having, as appears
from the fragments, very massive walls. While the wicked Earl
Patrick was in confinement, one of his natural sons defended this
castle to extremity against the King's troops, and only surrendered
when it was nearly a heap of ruins, and then under condition he
should not be brought in evidence against his father.
"We dine at the inn, and drink the Prince Regent's health, being
that of the day--Mr. Baikie of Tankerness dines with us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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