Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
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Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
"_15th August, 1814._--Fine morning. We get again into the Pentland
Frith, and with the aid of a pilot-boat belonging to the lighthouse
service, from South Ronaldsha, we attempt the Skerries.
Notwithstanding the fair weather, we have a specimen of the violence
of the flood-tide, which forms whirlpools on the shallow sunken
rocks by the islands of Swona and Stroma, and in the deep water
makes strange, smooth, whirling, and swelling eddies, called by the
sailors, _wells_. We run through the _wells of Tuftile_ in
particular, which, in the least stress of weather, wheel a large
ship round and round, without respect either to helm or sails. Hence
the distinction of _wells_ and _waves_ in Old English; the _well_
being that smooth, glassy, oily-looking eddy, the force of which
seems to the eye almost resistless. The bursting of the waves in
foam around these strange eddies has a bewildering and confused
appearance, which it is impossible to describe. Get off the Skerries
about ten o'clock, and land easily; it is the first time a boat has
got there for several days. The _Skerries_[76] is an island about
sixty acres, of fine short herbage, belonging to Lord Dundas; it is
surrounded by a reef of precipitous rocks, not very high, but
inaccessible, unless where the ocean has made ravines among them,
and where stairs have been cut down to the water for the lighthouse
service. Those inlets have a romantic appearance, and have been
christened by the sailors, the Parliament House, the Seals'
Lying-in-Hospital, etc. The last inlet, after rushing through a deep
chasm, which is open overhead, is continued under ground, and then
again opens to the sky in the middle of the island; in this hole the
seals bring out their whelps; when the tide is high, the waves rise
up through this aperture in the middle of the isle--like the blowing
of a whale in noise and appearance. There is another round cauldron
of solid rock, to which the waves have access through a natural arch
in the rock, having another and lesser arch rising just above it; in
hard weather, the waves rush through both apertures with a horrid
noise; the workmen called it the Carron Blast, and, indeed, the
variety of noises which issued from the abyss, somewhat reminded me
of that engine. Take my rifle, and walk round the cliffs in search
of seals, but see none, and only disturb the digestion of certain
aldermen-cormorants, who were sitting on the points of the crags
after a good fish breakfast; only made one good shot out of four.
The lighthouse is too low, and on the old construction, yet it is of
the last importance. The keeper is an old man-of-war's-man, of whom
Mr. Stevenson observed that he was a great swearer when he first
came; but after a year or two's residence in this solitary abode,
became a changed man. There are about fifty head of cattle on the
island; they must be got in and off with great danger and
difficulty. There is no water upon the isle, except what remains
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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