Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
General
Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
"Cape Wrath is a striking point, both from the dignity of its own
appearance, and from the mental association of its being the extreme
cape of Scotland, with reference to the north-west. There is no land
in the direct line between this point and America. I saw a pair of
large eagles, and if I had had the rifle-gun might have had a shot,
for the birds, when I first saw them, were perched on a rock within
about sixty or seventy yards. They are, I suppose, little disturbed
here, for they showed no great alarm. After the Commissioners and
Mr. Stevenson had examined the headland, with reference to the site
of a lighthouse, we strolled to our boat, and came on board between
ten and eleven. Get the boat up upon deck, and set sail for the
Lewis with light winds and a great swell of tide. Pass a rocky islet
called Gousla. Here a fine vessel was lately wrecked; all her crew
perished but one, who got upon the rocks from the boltsprit, and was
afterwards brought off. In front of Cape Wrath are some angry
breakers, called the _Staggs_; the rocks which occasion them are
visible at low water. The country behind Cape Wrath swells in high
sweeping elevations, but without any picturesque or dignified
mountainous scenery. But on sailing westward a few miles,
particularly after doubling a headland called the Stour of Assint,
the coast assumes the true Highland character, being skirted with a
succession of picturesque mountains of every variety of height and
outline. These are the hills of Ross-shire--a waste and thinly
peopled district at this extremity of the island. We would willingly
have learned the names of the most remarkable, but they are only
laid down in the charts by the cant names given them by mariners,
from their appearance, as the Sugar-loaf, and so forth. Our breeze
now increases, and seems steadily favorable, carrying us on with
exhilarating rapidity, at the rate of eight knots an hour, with the
romantic outline of the mainland under our lee-beam, and the dusky
shores of the Long Island beginning to appear ahead. We remain on
deck long after it is dark, watching the phosphoric effects
occasioned, or made visible, by the rapid motion of the vessel, and
enlightening her course with a continued succession of sparks and
even flashes of broad light, mingled with the foam which she flings
from her bows and head. A rizard haddock and to bed. Charming
weather all day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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