Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
General
Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
"Proceeding southward, we open the beautiful bay of Tobermory, or
Mary's Well. The mouth of this fine natural roadstead is closed by
an isle called Colvay, having two passages, of which only one, the
northerly, is passable for ships. The bay is surrounded by steep
hills, covered with copsewood, through which several brooks seek the
sea in a succession of beautiful cascades. The village has been
established as a fishing station by the Society for British
Fisheries. The houses along the quay are two and three stories high,
and well built; the feuars paying to the Society sixpence per foot
of their line of front. On the top of a steep bank, rising above the
first town, runs another line of second-rate cottages, which pay
fourpence per foot; and behind are huts, much superior to the
ordinary sheds of the country, which pay only twopence per foot. The
town is all built upon a regular plan, laid down by the Society. The
new part is reasonably clean, and the old not unreasonably dirty.
We landed at an excellent quay, which is not yet finished, and found
the little place looked thriving and active. The people were getting
in their patches of corn; and the shrill voices of the children
attending their parents in the field, and loading the little ponies
which are used in transporting the grain, formed a chorus not
disagreeable to those whom it reminds of similar sounds at home. The
praise of comparative cleanliness does not extend to the lanes
around Tobermory, in one of which I had nearly been effectually
bogged. But the richness of the round steep green knolls, clothed
with copse, and glancing with cascades, and a pleasant peep at a
small fresh-water loch embosomed among them--the view of the bay,
surrounded and guarded by the island of Colvay--the gliding of two
or three vessels in the more distant Sound--and the row of the
gigantic Ardnamurchan mountains closing the scene to the north,
almost justify the eulogium of Sacheverell, who, in 1688, declared
the bay of Tobermory might equal any prospect in Italy. It is said
that Sacheverell made some money by weighing up the treasures lost
in the Florida, a vessel of the Spanish Armada, which was wrecked in
the harbor. He himself affirms, that though the use of the
diving-bells was at first successful, yet the attempt was afterwards
disconcerted by bad weather.
"Tobermory takes its name from a spring dedicated to the Virgin,
which was graced by a chapel; but no vestiges remain of the chapel,
and the spring rises in the middle of a swamp, whose depth and dirt
discouraged the nearer approach of Protestant pilgrims. Mr.
Stevenson, whose judgment is unquestionable, thinks that the village
should have been built on the island called Colvay, and united to
the continent by a key, or causeway, built along the southernmost
channel, which is very shallow. By this means the people would have
been much nearer the fishings, than retired into the depth of the
bay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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