Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
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Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
_"4th September, 1814._--Waked in the morning with good hope of
hearing service in Derry Cathedral, as we had felt ourselves under
weigh since daylight; but these expectations vanished when, going on
deck, we found ourselves only halfway up Lough Foyle, and at least
ten miles from Derry. Very little wind, and that against us; and the
navigation both shoally and intricate. Called a council of war; and
after considering the difficulty of getting up to Derry, and the
chance of being wind-bound when we do get there, we resolve to
renounce our intended visit to that town. We had hardly put the ship
about, when the Irish Æolus shifted his trumpet, and opposed our
exit, as he had formerly been unfavorable to our progress up the
lake. At length, we are compelled to betake ourselves to towing, the
wind fading into an absolute calm. This gives us time enough to
admire the northern, or Donegal, side of Lough Foyle--the other
being hidden from us by haze and distance. Nothing can be more
favorable than this specimen of Ireland.--A beautiful variety of
cultivated slopes, intermixed with banks of wood; rocks skirted with
a distant ridge of heathy hills, watered by various brooks; the
glens or banks being, in general, planted or covered with copse; and
finally, studded by a succession of villas and gentlemen's seats,
good farmhouses, and neat white-washed cabins. Some of the last are
happily situated upon the verge of the sea, with banks of copse or a
rock or two rising behind them, and the white sand in front. The
land, in general, seems well cultivated and enclosed--but in some
places the enclosures seem too small, and the ridges too crooked,
for proper farming. We pass two gentlemen's seats, called White
Castle and Red Castle; the last a large good-looking mansion, with
trees, and a pretty vale sloping upwards from the sea. As we
approach the termination of the Lough, the ground becomes more rocky
and barren, and the cultivation interrupted by impracticable
patches, which have been necessarily abandoned. Come in view of
Green Castle, a large ruinous castle, said to have belonged to the
MacWilliams. The remains are romantically situated upon a green bank
sloping down to the sea, and are partly covered with ivy. From their
extent, the place must have been a chieftain's residence of the very
first consequence. Part of the ruins appear to be founded upon a
high red rock, which the eye at first blends with the masonry. To
the east of the ruins, upon a cliff overhanging the sea, are a
modern fortification and barrack-yard, and beneath, a large battery
for protection of the shipping which may enter the Lough; the guns
are not yet mounted. The Custom-house boat boards us and confirms
the account that American cruisers are upon the coast. Drift out of
the Lough, and leave behind us this fine country, all of which
belongs in property to Lord Donegal; other possessors only having
long leases, at sixty years, or so forth. Red Castle, however,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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