Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
General
Memoirs of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, Volume 4 (of 10)
Lockhart, J. G. (John Gibson)
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Biography; Scott, Walter, 1771-1832
"_31st July_.--Waked at seven; vessel off Fowlsheugh and Dunnottar.
Fair wind, and delightful day; glide enchantingly along the coast of
Kincardineshire, and open the bay of Nigg about ten. At eleven, off
Aberdeen; the gentlemen go ashore to Girdle-Ness, a projecting point
of rock to the east of the harbor of Foot-Dee. There the magistrates
of Aberdeen wish to have a fort and beacon-light. The Oscar, whaler,
was lost here last year, with all her hands, excepting two; about
forty perished. Dreadful, to be wrecked so near a large and populous
town! The view of Old and New Aberdeen from the sea is quite
beautiful. About noon proceed along the coast of Aberdeenshire, which,
to the northwards, changes from a bold and rocky to a low and sandy
character. Along the bay of Belhelvie, a whole parish was swallowed up
by the shifting sands, and is still a desolate waste. It belonged to
the Earls of Errol, and was rented at £500 a year at the time. When
these sands are passed the land is all arable. Not a tree to be seen;
nor a grazing cow, or sheep, or even a labor-horse at grass, though
this be Sunday. The next remarkable object was a fragment of the old
castle of Slains, on a precipitous bank, overlooking the sea. The
fortress was destroyed when James VI. marched north [A. D. 1594],
after the battle of Glenlivet, to reduce Huntly and Errol to
obedience. The family then removed to their present mean habitation,
for such it seems, a collection of low houses forming a quadrangle,
one side of which is built on the very verge of the precipice that
overhangs the ocean. What seems odd, there are no stairs down to the
beach. Imprudence, or ill-fortune as fatal as the sands of Belhelvie,
has swallowed up the estate of Errol, excepting this dreary
mansion-house, and a farm or two adjoining. We took to the boat, and
running along the coast had some delightful sea-views to the northward
of the castle. The coast is here very rocky; but the rocks, being
rather soft, are wasted and corroded by the constant action of the
waves,--and the fragments which remain, where the softer parts have
been washed away, assume the appearance of old Gothic ruins. There are
open arches, towers, steeples, and so forth. One part of this scaur is
called _Dunbuy_, being colored yellow by the dung of the sea-fowls,
who build there in the most surprising numbers. We caught three young
gulls. But the most curious object was the celebrated Buller of
Buchan, a huge rocky cauldron, into which the sea rushes through a
natural arch of rock. I walked round the top; in one place the path is
only about two feet wide, and a monstrous precipice on either side. We
then rowed into the cauldron or buller from beneath, and saw nothing
around us but a regular wall of black rock, and nothing above but the
blue sky. A fishing hamlet had sent out its inhabitants, who, gazing
from the brink, looked like sylphs looking down upon gnomes. In the
side of the cauldron opens a deep black cavern. Johnson says it might
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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