Memorials and Other Papers — Volume 1De Quincey, Thomas
General
Memorials and Other Papers — Volume 1
De Quincey, Thomas
English essays
One only account with the college remains to be noticed; but this is the
main one. It is expressed in the bills by the word _battels_, derived
from the old monkish word _patella_ (or batella), a plate; and it
comprehends whatsoever is furnished for dinner and for supper, including
malt liquor, but not wine, as well as the materials for breakfast,
or for any casual refreshment to country visitors, excepting only
groceries. These, together with coals and fagots, candles, wine, fruit,
and other more trifling _extras_, which are matters of personal choice,
form so many private accounts against your name, and are usually
furnished by tradesmen living near to the college, and sending their
servants daily to receive orders. Supper, as a meal not universally
taken, in many colleges is served privately in the student's own room;
though some colleges still retain the ancient custom of a public supper.
But dinner is, in all colleges, a public meal, taken in the refectory or
"hall" of the society; which, with the chapel and library, compose the
essential public _suite_ belonging to every college alike. No absence is
allowed, except to the sick, or to those who have formally applied for
permission to give a dinner-party. A fine is imposed on all other cases
of absence. Wine is not generally allowed in the public hall, except to
the "high table," that is, the table at which the fellows and some other
privileged persons are entitled to dine. The head of the college rarely
dines in public. The other tables, and, after dinner, the high table,
usually adjourn to their wine, either upon invitations to private
parties, or to what are called the "common rooms" of the several
orders--graduates and undergraduates, &c. The dinners are always plain,
and without pretensions--those, I mean, in the public hall; indeed,
nothing _can_ be plainer in most colleges--a simple choice between two
or three sorts of animal food, and the common vegetables. No fish, even
as a regular part of the fare; no soups, no game; nor, except on some
very rare festivity, did I ever see a variation from this plain fare at
Oxford. This, indeed, is proved sufficiently by the average amount of
the _battels_. Many men "battel" at the rate of a guinea a week: I
did so for years: that is, at the rate of three shillings a day for
everything connected with meals, excepting only tea, sugar, milk,
and wine. It is true that wealthier men, more expensive men, and more
careless men, often "battelled" much higher; but, if they persisted in
this excess, they incurred censures, more and more urgent, from the head
of the college.
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