A visit to the house of Mrs. George R. Fearing at Fontainebleau gave us
a delightful glimpse of French country life. Even the name of the street
where she lived, “rue de l’Arbre Sec,” had a promise of romance. Here we
found “modern conveniences” and charming hospitality combined with the
setting and atmosphere of a French country house. This kind friend had
lived so long in France as to become thoroughly acclimated. Indeed, she
did not return to America until the sound of the cannon at her gates in
the battle of the Marne drove her from her beloved France.
The family came together at twelve o’clock, for an excellent luncheon,
followed by coffee in the garden. Here the lofty walls gave us a
delightful feeling of privacy, even though we were living in the midst
of a small town. The European use of the garden as an annex to the house
is so eminently reasonable that one can hardly understand why its
introduction has been so fiercely fought in our own country.
In our friend’s garden, as everywhere in France, the combination of
beauty with economy delighted us. Who but the French would think of
using spinach as a border to the flower-beds?
At three o’clock came the daily drive into the wonderful forest, with a
visit to some spot of interest. Our thoughtful hostess always provided a
_goûter_ of bread and chocolate, our funny old driver taking his at a
little distance apart. When we visited quaint Barbizon, we munched our
_goûter_ under the shadow of the monument to its great artists. On our
return we dined at seven, and so the pleasant day ended.
Among the villages on the borders of the forest, Moret, with its
ancient, turreted gates and factory of beautiful chinaware, is
especially charming. The dear old church, fast falling into decay, wrung
our hearts. “Darby” was a zealous Protestant, but he felt it right to
drop something in the “_tronc pour la restauration de l’église_.” Alas!
one does not like to think of the decay that must, during the present
war, have overtaken many of these beautiful old wayside churches.
As the lovely Palace of Fontainebleau was almost at our door we had
excellent opportunities of becoming acquainted with it. It is especially
satisfactory to the tourist, because the rooms still retain the old
artistic furniture. When wandering through them you seem to catch a
glimpse of the vanished past with its grandeur.
When the time came for us to leave Fontainebleau and start on our
pilgrimage, we felt very much like elderly Babes in the Wood, for
Caroline was to stay behind with Mrs. Fearing. She had fortified us,
however, with much advice. We were especially cautioned to observe her
instructions as to the proper amount of the _pourboire_, in order that
the hack-drivers might perceive us to be, not perhaps exactly natives,
but persons of knowledge who could not be easily imposed upon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account