The next morning at breakfast we took leave of our General. We were bound
for Constantinople and our ship was to sail at noon. He was bound heaven
knows whither in search of paragraphs. After breakfast he announced his
intention of going up to the citadel of Smyrna. “I am informed,” he told
us, “that there air up there some Cyclopean walls. Now Cyclops lived
quite a long while ago, and I’m not going to miss seeing what he built.”
It was rather a shame to disillusion the poor gentleman, but I thought of
the seven across the Atlantic and was stony-hearted. When I explained to
him the meaning of Cyclopean building the General was disenchanted, but
he went up to the citadel nevertheless, and I have no doubt made a very
pretty story out of the great one-eyed builder.
* * * * *
And now let me go back seven years and start again on Gunpowder Plot Day,
1864, when we left the radiantly beautiful bay of Smyrna for England
on board the Austrian Lloyd’s ship _Messina_. Twenty-six hours’ steam
brought us to the Island of Syra, where, after being roasted for a day
and a night on that sun-scorched rock, where no trace of vegetation is to
be seen—to all appearance an island of bumboat-men and evil smells—on the
7th we shipped on board the _Calcutta_, also an Austrian Lloyd’s ship,
bound for Trieste.
It is something to have seen Navarino and to have passed Ithaca, even
in the night; but what gave especial interest to our cruise was meeting
Count Ungern Sternberg (or was he a Baron? I forget), a Russian who was a
relation of many people whom I had known well in St. Petersburg. Though
a general in the army, he was one of those travelling agents who in
those days used to wander over Europe apparently charged with no special
mission, but keeping their ears and eyes open everywhere, and doubtless
finding many an opportunity of rendering some underground service to
the rather tortuous policy in which the Russian Foreign Office in those
days delighted. Now that the Gortchakoffs and Ignatieffs have carried
their diplomacy into another and let us hope a better world, there is
perhaps no room for the political knight errant of whom Ungern Sternberg
was at that time a rather famous representative. I knew him well by
name, though we had never met, and he was a most agreeable companion.
We talked a great deal about our common friends in London, Paris, St.
Petersburg (I cannot yet bring myself to talk of Petrograd). On politics,
for some reason best known to himself, he was, as he would have put it,
_très boutonné_; but when we reached Corfu and he saw the remains of
the blown-up forts his excitement got the better of his diplomacy, and
he could not conceal his joy at the loss which England had sustained,
or his wonder at the short-sightedness which prompted it. “What was
your Lord Russell about?” he said. “See how many combinations may make
England regret this step. For instance, suppose that France and Italy—no
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