A few days of lovely weather in the balmy air of the Indian Ocean,
lounging, dozing, dreaming, watching the wild leaps of the flying-fish
escaping from the dolphins, speculating upon the unknown that lay
ahead—those were days of which every hour was precious. The four or
five of us older men who had made friends sat together in a well-chosen
corner. The griffins and youngsters bound for the far East left us
severely to ourselves; we were told that they called our corner the
lions’ den. Well, we were very happy and did not growl too much. At
Pointe de Galle Overbeck and I bade Gloster good-bye.
At Hong Kong, after three or four delightful days, thanks to the
hospitality of Messrs. Dent, I parted from Overbeck, and the last link
with the “lions’ den” of the _Simla_ was finally broken. He, Gloster
and I corresponded fitfully, but we did not meet again for nine years,
and then in rather a curious way—indeed, if it were not for the wish to
record the meeting later on, and to explain its significance, I should
not have ventured to write about the voyage.
All the “old China hands” of the sixties will remember with affection
Captain “Ikey” Bernard, who commanded the _Ganges_ which carried me from
Hong Kong to Shanghai. Captain Bernard was a great character in the China
Sea. He was the son of a former professor of Hebrew at Cambridge, from
whom he had inherited literary tastes of which the choice little library
in his cabin gave proof, and he kept glowing more than a small spark of
that sacred fire which burns upon the University altar. He made me free
of his cabin, and I spent many hours there in great comfort, and with
some profit.
He was, moreover, something of an epicure, and he and I and two other
passengers dined and had luncheon in his cabin, where we had the best
that the ship could afford: it was a coasting voyage through narrow
island passages, where one could almost hear the fury of the sea dashing
itself against the black rocks frowning on either side, we passed many
fishing junks with their busy crews, and the skipper, who never could
resist the temptation of fresh fish, would stop and buy quantities of
pomfret, all alive, paying for them in ship’s biscuit. Those were the
halcyon days of monopoly. Fancy stopping a mail steamer to buy fish in
these times of ocean-racing and competition! Fifty years ago, “Ikey”
Bernard did not hesitate. His father must have been a very cultivated and
remarkable man. I remember a book of essays upon various subjects by him,
full of wise and clever thoughts, amongst others one on Inspiration which
fascinated me. I often met my friend “Ikey” during the years that I spent
in the Far East, for, welcome whenever his ship touched the shore, he was
one of those much-invited men, whom everybody is glad to secure, and we
had many pleasant talks about all things and some others.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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