When we were on the railway, bound for San Francisco, we had a little
taste of the life of the Wild West. At a roadside station a great,
burly man got into the car, very rough, very dirty, very drunk and very
quarrelsome. Things had apparently not gone smoothly with him, and he
was thirsting for the blood of an enemy, failing whom, brandishing a
revolver, he declared himself determined to slay someone in the car. His
language was savage, indecent, and blasphemous. The women began to scream
and hide their children in their petticoats; but as quick as thought
the guard, a tiny little man, went up to the big bully twice his size,
disarmed him and turned him out cowering at the next station. Not much of
an adventure, but characteristic of the place and time.
San Francisco was amazing. It is probably much more marvellous now, since
its resurrection from the ruins of the great earthquake. But to me, who
could recollect the gold fever in the forties, when I was old enough to
take interest in the pictures of the _Illustrated London News_—the only
illustrated paper out at that time—it seemed simply miraculous to see
that city of palaces risen barely twenty-five years before out of the
sand-heaps of the Pacific Coast. The greatest marvel of all were the men.
I had letters for Mr. Ralston, the manager of the Bank of California;
Mr. Gänsel, the agent of the Rothschilds, and others; and through their
good offices I made the acquaintance with most of the heroes whose toil
and industry had landed them winners in these great welter races of
prosperity. It is notorious that new communities, especially those where
there are pigeons ready for the plucking, attract the failures of the
world, the flotsam and jetsam of the sea of rascaldom. The worst case
that I ever came across was Port Said in 1870, where the griffins on
their way out to India, and older men homeward bound on furlough, who
might be accredited with having shaken such poor remnants of fruit as
might yet hang here and there on the pagoda tree, fell easy victims to
the croupiers of the hells and the sirens of the _cafés-chantants_. San
Francisco, in its salad days, was no exception to the rule. Gamblers,
professors of poker, of euchre and other games, were there by the
hundred; bullies, and swindlers, men living upon their wits, but chiefly
on the lack of wits in others; hawks ready to pounce upon any simple
miner with brains lighter than his pouch who might come under the clutch
of their talons. Evil men enough and to spare, but happily many more good
ones, rare pioneers, endowed with that grip and holdfast purpose which
have raised the United States to their proud position among the nations
under the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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