In the year 1614, and long before, one of the most delicious city dainties was a Bartholomew _roast pig_. * A cold turkey-pie and a glass of rich malmsey were “creature comforts” not to be despised even by such devout sons of self-denial as Mr. Zeal-of-the-land Busy, who always popped in at pudding-time. ** But Bartholomew pig, “a meat that is nourishing, and may be longed for,” that may be eaten, “very exceeding well eaten,” but not in a fair, was the _ne plus ultra_ of savoury morsels: therefore Win-the-fight Little wit, with a strawberry breath, cherry lips, and apricot cheeks, the better half (not in folly!) of one of “the pretty wits of Paul's,” shams Abram, and pretends to long for it, in order to overcome the scruples and qualms of Dame Purecraft and the Banbury man, who, but for such longing, would have never consented to her visiting the fair. * “Now London's Mayor, on saddle new, Rides to the Fair of Bartlemew; He twirls his chain, and looketh big, As if to fright the head of pig, That gaping lies on every stall.”--Davenant. Shakspere, in the First Part of King Henry the Fourth, speaks of an ox being roasted at Bartholomew Fair. ** “I ne'er saw a parson without a good nose,-- But the devil's as welcome wherever he goes.”--Swift. The Rabbi being called upon by the dame to legalise roast pig, proposes that it shall be eaten with a reformed mouth, and not after the profane fashion of feeding; and, that the weak may be comforted, himself will accompany them to the fair, and eat exceedingly, and prophesy! Among the minor delicacies of Ursula's * cuisine--Ursula, “uglye of clieare,” the pig-woman and priestess of St. Bartlemy, “all fire and fat!”--are tobacco, colt's-foot, bottled-ale, and tripes; and a curious picture of Smithfield manners is given in her instructions to Mooncalf to froth the cans well, jog the bottles o' the buttock, shink out the first glass ever, and drink with all companies. * “Her face all bowsy, Comclye crinkled, Wonderously wrinkled Like a roste pigges eare, Brystled Avith here. Her nose some dele hoked, And camouslye eroked, Her skin lose and slacke, Grained like a saeke With a croked backe.”--Skelton.